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Old 02-05-2013, 07:13 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to pull apart my long post. I really do appreciate it.
I type fast.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
I replaced plugs about six months ago, haven't done wires or coil but check them regularly and they seem ok.
The coil problem is usually described as a miss at idle. I don't consider a miss to be a miss unless the CEL flashes or stores a code. Anyway, cracked coils and wires pulling out of the coil plug-in are typically the cause. We have also seen wires damaged in the harness away from the coil. Always make sure that your wiring is far from things that are hot like the EGR feed tube.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
DPFE sensor replaced about 6 months ago.
Sometime when you have the time, you can remove the EGR, clean it, and test it. If you want to get really funky, a shop vac and a long screwdriver can clean out the EGR port. It will be clogged with black solid carbon. The EGR will be packed with that as well. Clean off what you can, then use a piece of vacuum line to suck lightly- the amount of air to fill one cheek- and that will actuate the EGR if it is working correctly. If you hear the air suck out- replace the EGR. I doubt you have this problem as it causes specific running problems engine cold or hot. When cold the engine will run rough, and you'll have hiccups, misses, and pinging when warm.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
I have a new fuel filter, just hadn't had the chance yet, so I'll put that in today and do the other two mounts, double check wiring connections and grounds, check voltages.
That's a lot for one day. Anyway, the fuel filter is deceptive. Lots of people think that you have to remove the clips to remove the filter, but that's not how it works. You should press the flat white rectangle IN and wiggle to release the line. If you remove the clip from the line, eventually it will break. On the passenger side, the clip can't be reached at the filter, so you follow the line back about 6", and you'll see a clip you can remove easily, remove the filter with that small section of line. If you have an O'Reilleys nearby, their Microguard filters come with the new style clips- in case you break one.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
Can I release the tensioner on the drivebelt and take it off and check it and the pulleys that way?
Yes, of course. Simply use a wrench to rotate the tensioner. Be careful, it can bite you!

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
I'd have to do that to take the alternator to the parts store to check.
Not really, and I don't like that most of their techs can't do the test properly anyway. I would use the electronic odometer trick to observe alternator voltage if a problem is suspect. Other than that, I'd just wait until it goes out- unless it makes noises, or if you rotate it, it feels lumpy. Like I said, ask around, and locate a local rebuilder. It will save you $$$. The pulley alone is $85, and might not need to be replaced.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
I also believe I would have to remove the drivebelt in order to check the timing belt but I'm not certain.
Not at all. At the top of the engine, there is an inspection cover that covers the timing belt. Remove that. To fully inspect all of the timing belt, follow this procedure. Use a permanent marker to mark all the belt that you can see. Look for webbing showing through, rubber missing from the back of the belt, and ribs missing from the underside. Now you can unplug the coil if you want, but if you follow the emergency start procedure, the engine won't start. Key off, press and hold the accelerator to the floor, bump the engine. Go check the belt again, and mark again. Keep that up until you have marked up the whole belt. Any sign of damage is a good reason to plan to replace the belt. If you can still read writing on the back of the belt, then it was probably changed before you purchased it.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
I'll inspect the clutch and fluid while I'm at it as I have had a leak.
Eh.... no you're not. Your leak there is at the clutch slave cylinder. You can't reach it, see it, and you don't want to change it until you have to do a clutch, then I recommend it with every clutch. Monitor your fluid leak, and when you need to add fluid, do so. If you end up with air in the slave so that it won't shift, keep a 10mm wrench in the glove box. At least I think it's a 10, it's what you need to loosen the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder. In your case, I'd loosen it at home with a socket, then snug it so you can loosen it without damaging it if you need to. Snug is fine for bleeder nipples. Ok, so remove the reservoir cap. Now, open the bleeder, as long as you are on level ground, you should see a bubble, then fluid. Close, you should lose just a tad of fluid, and that will keep you going for a while. I used to have to do that on a Probe about every 3 months. Keep some fluid and a rag under the hood somewhere that it can't tip over or fall out.

Originally Posted by katchoo22 View Post
If I'm reading my scan tool properly, the first O2S is reading high and the LTFT is high. I have a can of MAF cleaner. I'll do that as well as throttle body. I'll let you know if anything changes and see where to go from there. Thanks again.
Yep, like I said, just wait on those fuel trim issues until you figure out if the timing belt is good, and change the fuel filter.
Be eclectic.
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Originally Posted by the user formerly known as ZX3_Chick View Post
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