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Old 01-10-2013, 05:24 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by escott816 View Post
Thanks, We removed the bolts to change the brakes as per our chilton book. The book didn't say anything about the back plate coming off though. It just scared us. It was on there for hours and then fell off suddenly. We're going to bolt it back on and then do the wheel bearing. Quick question though, I've heard the pullers that you rent from the auto store doesn't work to pull the bearing? Is that correct? and if so where can I have it pressed? Thanks Again

Well any auto shop has a press that I am sure will press out the old and press in the new bearing for a price. However, I recommend you guys change the whole drum. When you buy the drums, it already has a new bearing pressed in. It's just easier, take of the 30mm nut, remove the drum and install a new one. Don't cheap out on the drum though, as the cheapo ones have a terrible bearing pressed that fail in 10k. Happened to me twice, so I went with a better drum and no problems.

This is important. When you change the drum and install a new one, while you are tightening you should spin the drum counter-clockwise about 10 revolutions every so often while tightening. This will ensure that the bearing in the drum is sitted correctly while you are tightening the nut. The torque on the rear nut is 174 lbs/ft, so please use a torque wrench, rent one if you don't have one. At the very least, use a breaker bar because you don't want that wheel flying off later.

I did my the rear breaks on my car with new shoes and hardware, but the breaks were still squeeking. So I've changed the drum and that solved the problem. The drum must be machined at least, if you don't want to replace it, so it won't squeek.
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