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Old 12-21-2012, 08:50 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
so, you're braking while accelerating? or by dead stop do you mean you're parked (auto or manual) and just revving it, and once it gets around that range it just starts to bog.... and you're pressing the brake down during the whole thing?
I have to tap the brake after accelerating for a few seconds because the brake starts to harden , so i tap it , then the pressure goes away , then i can try an accelerate again , and so on. The engine still bogs at 2000 rpm during all this. then out of the blue it will work fine. no issues , and randomly and inttermittenly will work fine . car is automatic

Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
OK first: tune up, and while you're at it replace your brake booster check valve. That's what you say when you get there to the parts store. They will know what it is, it's a generic part. You can pull yours off if you want- it's the 90 degree connector where the brake booster hose hits the booster.

1) Plugs
2) Plug wires
3) Air filter
4) Fuel filter
5) PCV check.
6) MAF cleaning
7) TB cleaning

Now what Mike is referring to is the common problem we have with ignition coil power wires- the ones that plug in through a connector on the bottom of the coil. Pull on the wires individually to see if any come out of the connector. Then, if one does, replace the connector with a part from the Ford Dealer. If the wires don't come off, trace that wiring down and make sure there is no physical damage to it. Sometimes this is difficult because physical damage- like wires melting on the EGR feed tube- is ALWAYS where it is difficult to see without reaching down in there and twisting the loom around. Definitely double check wiring in areas around hot exhaust stuff- including that EGR feed tube.

BTW, how do you know your EGR is working? Here's how to test an EGR valve- after you've cleaned it. Get where you can see the valve, put a hose on the other end, then suck lightly- about as much breath as it takes to fill up one cheek will operate the EGR valve. If it doesn't move, or you don't feel resistance to your vacuum- then it fails.
Tune up has been done , plugs , wires , air filter , fuel filter maf cleaning and TB cleaning. PCV is the only thing i did not do.

I will have a look at the coil wireing and see if i can trace any melting or damage.

When i had the mechanic change it he tested it with a vaccum gauge, or whatever he did to make sure he wasn`t installing a bad part.

So since we got 25cm of snow today i will probably not get a chance to check anything until atleast i shovel most of my snow. but i will report back once i have check the above things and let you know.
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