Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum - View Single Post - How to remove and replace door lock actuator, exterior handle,keyhole and interior handle
View Single Post
Old 12-07-2012, 03:47 PM   #12
Focus Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2012
Fan#: 107070
Location: Broadview Hts., OH
What I Drive: 05 maroon zx4

Posts: 5
Points 6, Level 1
Points: 6, Level: 1 Points: 6, Level: 1 Points: 6, Level: 1
Level Up 11% Completed
Level up: 11% Level up: 11% Level up: 11%
Forum Activity 1%
Activity: 1% Activity: 1% Activity: 1%
FF Reputation: 1 mcgilver Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
05 Rear Door Panel, and Lock remove and repair

Here is a COMPLETE AND DETAILED description of my experience at this task.
I'm not responsible for any mishaps you may have happen while using my related experience to accomplish this.

My own experience – Pass. Rear
First be sure the child safety switch is in the right position - CCW.

Easy job !! - I found the gears to be out of time – can be done in an hour,
BUT retiming made the PDL work for only 2-3 mo. – I redid this procedure and removed the gear and little motor. Works fine now manually.

Tools - T-20 (or T15 will work too) and T30 torx sockets, a small flat screw driver, a thin wall Ό” socket, plus a couple of basic tool box tools.
Front refers to the front of the car in these instructions

1 minute - Remove the triangle part at the rear of the window and above the main frame. Just 2 clips, pry gently. This creates ease when removing replacing the inner door panel.

10 minutes - With the window up, remove the panel – Remove the 6 black torx screws around the outside of the panel (there are no push clips to worry about on the panel).
- Use the screwdriver to pry off the inside pull handle from the bottom 1st.
- Remove the 2 brass colored hex head Ό” screws behind it.
- Behind the actual door opening handle there is a ½” round button that has to be removed and then remove the black torx screw behind it.
- Pull the panel gently out and up to remove it, being careful of the door opener handle and a wire harness attached.
- While pushing a sharp (like a ball point pen or paper clip) object in the small square hole on the side of the clip pull apart the wire clip.
- Lay the panel aside.

10 minutes
- Remove the triangle foam insulation piece from the bottom right of the door, by pulling out the 3 push clips.
- Where the cable (that goes from the door opening handle to the actual latch) attaches to the handle, carefully pull the plastic cap up FROM THE RIGHT SIDE where it has 2 side grooves, then remove the cable from the lock button there.
- Using a putty knife, separate the foam from the rear half of the door (half of top, all of the right side, and ½ of the bottom) so you have a “window” to work thru and use a small piece of duct tape to hold it open.
- Upper right, remove the oval 1x 1 ½ rubber plug.
- Remove the rear window track. Is not attached directly to the window, so it’s easy. Loosen the 2 flat chrome screws, then thru the "window" lift it up and remove it.
- On the rear/side of the door on the actual latch remove the 3 T-30 torx screws that mount the lock to the door.
5 minutes
Now the outside door opener handle.
- On the inside of the door there are 2 flat chrome torx screws holding it in place. Use a torx socket and remove the front one, but only back out the rear one most of the way, but leave it in a little bit.
- On the outside of the door, at back of the handle there is the smaller non movable trim - use the flat screw driver to pry out the right side first, and pivot/turn the rear out of the slot it is hooked in.
- Now pull/slide the actual handle to the rear and turn it out from the back.
- Now the assembly inside the door can be removed, but where the front screw comes out, be careful not to lose the plastic nut (about 1/4"” square by 7/8” long) that is attached to the door skin.
- Remove the door handle parts from the lock mechanism and lay aside. They are attached by a clip around the rod that can be squeezed with needle nose pliers and a push down clip on the other point.
Remove the cover to the gear – 10 minutes or however long you monkey with this – Turn the unit so it looks “L” shaped, but with the horizontal leg being the long one. If you were looking at the top of the horizontal leg you will see where the lock cable attaches. There are 3 screws that need to be removed and 2 tabs. Gently pry off that cover to get to the gear. There does not seem to be an exact timing setting for the round gear to the screw gear.
Just lift the round gear off and look at the bottom. There is a track that a pin travels thru while the gear turns, but there is an area where there is no track for part of the revolution. Remount the gear so the pin is in that area. The two gears work fine from that point. Test if the cable will lock/unlock now to be sure you did it right.

Reassemble the door in the reverse order, but be aware when re-assembling the outside door parts, that at the rear, the inside part has 2 little tabs that MUST be pushed thru and snapped in place. Test a few times as you do, in case there may be another problem not yet uncovered.
mcgilver is offline  
    Reply With Quote