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Old 12-02-2012, 12:08 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
For the rear camber arms I Like the Sure motorsports one's. Don't forget about getting the boots for the cfm arms & toe-links. I'd pass on the poly bushing kit for the rear. What sway bars are you going w/? Eibach has f22mm/r25mm.
I was planning on keeping the stock front bar and adding the rear SVT that I have in my garage. If not I was going to do the eibach kit

Originally Posted by Nickgt40 View Post
I find it hilarious that links to FSWerks are blocked.

... Anyways, don't waste your money on any lower braces. If doesn't matter if its a 2 point, or a 4 point, or a 15 point. The only thing those are good for is as a skid plate of sorts for being low.

Likewise, tubular control arms aren't going to add anything to the mix beyond what a good set of camber plates will do. In fact, you'll actually loose inside wheel clearance as you adjust camber inwards.

Bigger isn't better when it come to sway bars either, especially on a road like GMR where there are a lot of undulations and decreasing radius turns. Sway bars should be the last thing you do so you can fine tune the car. Your best bet is to try to find an Auto-X-ZTS rear bar that is adjustable. A 25mm rear bar on that road will suck, you can count on that.

Save the money spent on the tubular brace and control arms and put a differential in. That will far outweigh any benefit those two parts could bring.
Yea talking to Sean yesterday I got rid of the tubular arms. What kind of camber plates do you recommend?

And yea I was going to do the brace last if I had left over stuff. Are there any diffs for an automatic?

Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Just to add the lower bar do more than a strut tower bar does.
Originally Posted by Nickgt40 View Post
Right, nothing plus a little is better than absolutely nothing.

You raise a far point :)
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