Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum - View Single Post - Let's talk lift induced oversteer for a moment
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:07 PM   #8
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Location: Seattle, WA
What I Drive: 2004 Red Focus SVT

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Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Originally Posted by TommyTooHi View Post
It's known that Our Dear Focii do this, and I'd like to learn your driving habits/tips/tricks.
Stay in the throttle & use brakes to maintain momentum. The focus is a momentum car, like the mazda mx5. Have to learn to keep the speed up.
Try using your left foot on the brake= Just use a little pressure & feel weight transfer do its job. Different driving technique, takes getting use to.
Ah, beautiful response! Forgot all about that~~ I use it often, over the whoop-te-doops to keep the car planted, on the ground. Surprises those that follow... heh heh... I'll employ it from now on, thanks~~!~!~!

Originally Posted by Neptune15 View Post
I'm curious about this too, for track purposes.

I'm a track newbie and I find even just a dab of throttle through corners keeps things stable.

Can this oversteer be used to be quicker around a track? Say, chuck the car into the corner without throttle and power out of it?
If you're into FWD drifting, maybe? See Felixthecat's response, that might be the ticket? I DO feel that as soon as the 'rotate' feeling comes, getting back on the throttle for a steady-state speed, it's gone. Same trick as on my aprilia hoon-cycle, steady state throttle is the stable/fast way around corners.

Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
Are your toe numbers in inches or degrees? My experience is that a basically stock SVT is very neutral and not "prone" to oversteer, it has to be induced. Stiffer rear springs or larger rear sway will make the rear looser. Any car will have a tendancy to oversteer if you brake while cornering. That's why you do braking before entering a corner. Tires are also an important part of the equation. I'm assuming you do not have aftermarket camber adjustment devises on the rear end of your car. If you do, they should have been able to get the rear camber more even side to side.
I was afraid someone was going to ask that... I pretty sure he said degrees. Must be, right?

Stock (orig) rear springs, new struts/springs/end links up front (Tousley Ford Racing kit, ya?) and new rear bushings, as I mentioned. Not as noticeable as before, but: rolling through the middle of the sweeper, rolling off the throttle with no other change to inputs and it wants to rotate. Some. Not snap, just feel it... starting to rotate. Feels pretty interesting, actually.

I THINK I will learn to benefit from it, once I get comfortable and learn the dynamics. Looking forward to snow, too!!!

Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Thats total toe= both sides. Seems good to me.
Thanks. one opinion I read here was rear .04 in of toe-IN.

But, I totally trust Greg Fordahl at this point. I'll give him a call and see if I can take some of his time about why OUT instead of IN - his shop is FULL of race cars in various states of reconstruction. Then there's his 914-6 track car, BITCHIN! It's about 2' wider than stock, friggin serious mods!!!

Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
Look into the 'anti-dive' mods Gold Coast (I think it was) did to the front bushings.

The problem comes from loading the front and the back coming up. Reduce the amount the front dives and the geometry stays more predictable. Or that's the theory.

Another option may be to give the rear more braking power. An adjustable proportioning valve or using larger ID front brake lines (which would reduce braking pressure). But both these must be very well understood before attempting any modifications.
The negative results could be VERY dangerous.
Wow, but WAY too serious!!! It's my daily driver/joy toy, but good info if I decide being anal is a GOOD thing.

Aw, heck - you mean what I know...

Mods: Caffeinated nut behind the steering wheel
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