Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum - View Single Post - 2008-2011 Projector Retrofit Guide: Morimoto Mini H1
View Single Post
Old 11-29-2012, 09:14 AM   #1
Focus Enthusiast
A7xschecter6661's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2012
Fan#: 98263
Location: Binghamton, NY
What I Drive: 2011 Focus SEL

Posts: 370
FF Reputation: 2 A7xschecter6661 Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
2008-2011 Projector Retrofit Guide: Morimoto Mini H1

Hey guys, a few of you were interested in a new guide and I figured I would write it up for you since I am doing another retrofit! My first one came out okay but it was rushed and I would like to spend more time perfecting this one.

This is the original guide I followed by Slammed2.0, but decided to make another one and go a little more in depth: How To: Open your headlights/Retrofit projectors

This can easily be done within one day, but I suggest having a spare set or vehicle and taking your time. You want to perfect your beams (perfectly horizontal), modify your cutoffs (if you want), make sure they fit on the car and adjust/fit them multiple times and epoxy the nut on the back when they are perfect so they do not vibrate loose.

You will need the following:
1. Oven- Last retro I did 280 degrees for about 20 minutes. (this provides even heating to the permaseal used to seal the lights, a heatgun will only soften your plastic)
2. Heat Gun to keep things warm while prying apart or putting together
3. Various screw drivers or prying devices to open the headlights
4. Rubber gloves, wear them when handling the lenses, projector bowls,lenses and shrouds.
5. More tools may be discussed later.

Anyways here we go

First Remove your headlight assemblies from your car or buy new ones to do the retrofit. Follow your owners manual for that. I have had mine out so many times I can get the grill off and both lights out in under 10 minutes.

So you will have two assemblies like this

Remove all your bulbs if you did not leave them on the car (My assemblies came with the bulbs and plugs)

Meet the wonderful permaseal that will be a big pain in your butt for the next little while.

You will slowly heat all of the plastic tabs with a heat gun and pry them away from the clear tab so the lenses can pop off.

Once those are all bent so the lens can come off, place it in the oven for 10 minutes on a cookie tray. Make sure nothing is touching anything in the oven (tops/sides)
I did this in segments though, put them in at 280 for 10 minutes, then pull them out and cut through all the sealant with a razor blade. (this is tough, use a real one with a nice handle). Cutting through the sealant will technically make it harder to remove the sealant from the groove later, but I would rather spend more time removing that than putting too much pressure on the lens and cracking/creasing it.

Then I bumped it up to 300 for the last 10 minutes. As soon as you pull it out run the razorblade around the edges once more nice and deep and immediately grab your screw driver (start small, then grab a bigger one to continue so you don't mess up the lens). Start prying at the inside bottom of the lens (under the turn signal) where there is a little ledge that will help you. Start prying around, as you get up to the top of the turn signal and across the bottom to the bottom side of the side amber lens it should become loose enough that you can grab it and just pop it apart by hand.

You will be left with the separated pieces. Immediately while it is still hot, peel all of the sealant off of the lens. If you let it cool you will have to scrape it off and mess up your lens. So save the scraping for the inside of the housing which you won't see.

Now you will peel all the sealant off. I used a heat gun because it separates from the plastic easier when it's hot. You will get lucky and you will get mad. You will have some areas that peel off perfectly clean for 2-8 inches and you will have some spots that you can't get a grip on to peel. Like I said I used pliers about 99% of the time, the other 1% was screwdriver/razorblade. Just grab a chunk and start peeling. Eventually the whole inside trench should be clean or mostly clean. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the cleaner it is the better it will seal.

Now at this point of the project, basically you are done. The hard part is seriously done and it took me about 1-1.5 hours to get one light ready for the projectors including preheating the oven and waiting. Now is when you decide if you want to cut out the bars in the headlight and if you want to paint any of your housing. I love the chrome look on mine so it's staying as is. I am also leaving the bars in, Like I said before i rushed my old one so I cut the bars off, ground them down with the dremel and q-tip painted chrome paint to make it blend in. Does not look good.

Anyways at this point you are basically inserting the projectors and aiming them and sealing it back up. Morimoto Mini H1s are so easy to work with for a nice quick clean upgrade. This guide is aimed at helping you guys that want awesome lights to see how easy it really is.

Now that your lenses are off and the sealant channels are all cleaned out it is time to proceed. You must remove the halogen bulb shield shown below by removing the torx bit.

After it is removed, it looks like this

You've got mail! Here are the TRS Morimoto Mini H1s
Projectors and Shrouds, 3 year warranty $90-
Projectors, Shrouds, Bulbs, Relay Harness,ballasts 5 year warranty $270-

Here they are (I got just the projectors and shrouds because this is my second set of lights so I already have the other goodies!) DO NOT TOUCH THE SHROUDS UNTIL YOU INSTALL THEM. My original ones got stuff on them and just from wiping them with a wet rag the chrome was coming off. Part of the one on my car is transparent/yellowish green and looks horrible! Leave them in the packaging until you are screwing them to the projectors.

Now you must decide if you want to be boring and stick with the cutoff TRS gives you shown below (sorry about the ceiling light)

Or if you want to take everything apart and modify the cutoff by simply adding washers under the bottom feet of the lenses.

This results in a bluish cutoff shown below!

You might now be thinking wait a second, that doesn't reallly look blue and it doesn't really make a difference..... Scroll down to see what happens when the lights are 20 feet away from a wall!

Beautiful blue cutoff!

Here is the picture of the washer setup that achieved the blue cutoff. Both bottom ones have 3 washers, top 2 have no washers.

Next you will drill a hole for the high beam solenoid wires right below the bulb hole and right above the hole that was for the halogen bulb shield.

Next in order for the projector to sit flush you have to grind the 3 small tabs seen in the picture above ^
Which will look like this.

Next you put the skinny rubber washer on. Do not use the big one that comes with the kit. I used that originally on my driver side because I ground the tabs too much and enlarged the hole. Then I used the skinny one on the passenger side. This resulted in my driver side light even at maximum height stop like 20 feet in front of me. Had to take the whole retrofit apart, put the small washer in and put it back together then it was perfect! SMALL RUBBER WASHER!

You then slide it through the hole and put the mounting nut on the back side of the reflector bowl.

Here are the projectors I decided to replace. Left one is new, right one is old. They both had crazy fuzzy cutoffs and they stick.

Next you will take the high beam solenoid wires you put through the hole you drilled and plug them into the connector. Make sure you are putting them in the right ones (match it up to the one on the harness with the locking tabs face up.

I then aimed the headlights but I will save the output pictures for the end.

After aiming I decided to epoxy the nut to keep it from coming loose. I epoxied the nut to the housing and the nut to the threads of the projector. Don't go overkill incase you ever did have to take it off for some reason.

Slide the original housing dust cover on

It looks like it's not going to seal right, but if you push it down around the housing, it's just big enough to stretch the dust cover and keep it in place.

Next it is time to use your butyl sealant. You can get a role of it at advance autoparts. Looks like this

Fill the entire channel with the stuff. Just cut a 14" piece off and pull/stretch it until it fits and keep going around the whole headlight assembly.

The whole channel filled in

Somebody asked me to include where I mounted/grounded the ballasts so here you go. Right under the headlights.


Next you will clamp your assemblies back together. Start at the turn signal and get your lens over that and then it slides up towards the top of the housing. You can use some clamps to give it pressure all around while using a heat gun. I follow that by black silicone to further waterproof it.
New one in front, old one in back

Both sets

On the car

Output shots


Last edited by A7xschecter6661; 12-05-2012 at 07:27 PM.
A7xschecter6661 is offline  
    Reply With Quote