- Stock zetec shortblock
- worked over SVT cylinder head (+ compression)
- FRIM Gen I
- SVT header
- 3" exhaust
- Adjustable cam gears
- 12# flywheel
- COP conversion
- 42# injectors
- P/S !
- Pretty good tune
- E-85 ? (no clue if or how much power this adds, and I won't get into any debate about it)
I've posted this a few times in various threads but have never made a thread of my own. It's about time I think.
First off, I'm a cheap ass. I don't really want to spend money unless I absolutely have to. With that in mind, all the work to my car has been done by me, apart from machine work and welding.
I'm running a Stock (no EGR bung) SVT header. It's wrapped and covered by the stock heat shield. I found this to reduce underhood temps the best. I can nearly touch the heatshield after hard runs. It gets to just over 120*F surface temp. Will depend on the quality and amount of header wrap you use.
I had a local shop do the exhaust. It's ~2.5" flex that moves up to 3" from there back. 3" resonator and muffler. It's all crush bent exhaust, not a big deal being it's large pipe.
There is 1 O2 bung in the exhaust for my Wide Band Oxygen Sensor. I am not using the factory O2's at all.
I'm using a 70mm Pro-M Mass Air Flow Sensor and sample tube. The intake piping is 3" 6061 Aluminum and I'm just using Silicon couples I found online for the bends.
The Intake manifold is a First Gen Ford Racing Manifold; which only has to be modified slightly to fit the SVT cylinder head. To fit the standard zetec head it has to be slotted and dropped about 0.25". The runners have been ported, port matched and polished. The throat (section below the throttle body) has also been ported slightly and polished.
I'm using a 70mm Throttle Body from a Mustang and there is a 3" spacer between it and the manifold. This had to be done so the throttle linkage wouldn't rub on the manifold.
I made a Throttle cable bracket from erector set style steel. The throttle cable is from a 1994 Geo Metro, and only had to be modified slightly to work.
To fit the manifold you have to either use an adapter bracket to move the alternator down or come up with another solution. I choose the other solution. This is using a SVT alternator bracket and slotting the mounting holes. I used my die grinder and was able to remove about 0.125" which lowered the mount just enough to fit the manifold. It's tight but doesn't touch.
The Cylinder Head is from a SVT. The big reason I wanted this head was that stock it comes with bigger cams and larger intake valves. This is all recipe for more air flow potential and more power.
I spent a good amount of time porting and polishing the head. I also debured the oil return ports and coolant ports. The reason for this was to allow smoother oil drain back and coolant transfer.
The intake ports are nearly 0.125" bigger across and the roof was raised just as much. I only smoothed out the port floors.
The seats and throats have been blended and smoothed.
The entire port was brought to a ~300RA surface finish.
The intake valves are swirl polished and the ridge near the stem was smoothed. Faces are mirror polished.
Seats are untouched and were only blended with lapping compound.
On the exhaust side,
The ports were opened up all around, nearly 0.25" larger than stock.
They entire port was mirror polished.
The valve is mirror polished tip to face.
The seats were untouched and blended just like the intake.
The chambers were "deshrouded". The hump between the valves was cut down and smoothed (I don't recommend doing this though, it was a mistake IMO).
The entire chamber was mirror polished.
The head was then shaved 0.045".
I'm running adjustable cam gears because you need to to set the cam timing correctly when not using the SVT's VCT.
I'm running Ford Racing 42# fuel injectors due to the fuel demand of Ethanol.
Nothing else I have done really adds power. It's just there to avoid problems or because something broke and I got a deal on a upgrade part.
Things like the lightweight flywheel, Contour water outlet housing, lack of power steering, Jay Racing COP kit and CFM oil pump gear.
I have done all the tuning of the car with SCT Advantage III. A few people have helped me with what things to try and with better explanations of what certain things do. Which was a big help, thanks guys!
My future plans are building a new shortblock. I have a SVT block that might work, I haven't brought it in to see if it'll be salvageable.
I know that I will use Eagle rods (cost standpoint). But I'm still undecided if I want JE or Wossner pistons and what compression I want (will be 12:1+) ... actually there was a custom set I should have bought a while back
The crank will be lightened and knife-edged.
Want to switch to a 8# flywheel and actual performance clutch (it's a stock replacement right now).
I haven't decided if I want to do dry sump oiling or stick with a wet sump. The cost and safety factor of dry sump is very appealing and with the RPM I run it should be a nobrainer.
I want a 4.06 final drive and I'd like to fit the newer MTX75 1st gear. I'm actually looking into this currently. I already have a trans with a Torrsen (in my other Focus,
My goal has always been 200whp N/A. I'm currently not too far off and I really think a bit better/more tuning and compression will reach that goal.
Once I have a built block then the fun will start. I've been pondering juicing the car, N2O. My goal if I do go nitrous is a 175 direct wet shot. Yes. That is enough to nearly double the power of the engine
. It won't be the first step for sure and will take me some hair pulling to work up to that big. From what I'm told a 100 shot should be a non-issue though.
And with this I plan on having a custom plate made to fit between the FRIM and head, bottom feed (there's just more room there).
Haven't looked into it too much yet though.
I'd like to have the new shortblock done by FF 2013 and I'd like to attend.
So there. I have set a goal and timeframe, for the first time ever.