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Can't figure this out to save my life. Literally.

5K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  zaniah01 
#1 ·
Ok I am new to the forum and have looked high and low throughout it to try and find an answer but I can't. I would appreciate any help as my next step is to junk the car and by a new one, not ideal since I can't really afford the new Focus I want.

I have a 01 ZX3 Zetec DOHC Automatic and since I bought the car two years ago it has had an idle problem that came and went randomly. If this helps at all when I bought the car the airbags had gone off which made the fuel pump cut off, all I did was hit the button and it reset. The car ran fine while under power and fine while at idle expect once in a while. I scanned the CL on car when I first bought it and it gave me P0171 System lean bank 1. Recently the car has become impossible to drive.

Here is a list of parts I have replaced: MAF, Spark Plugs (twice), Plug Wires, IAC, EGR Valve, EGR Valve Solenoid, Motor Mounts and Fuel Filter. I have also checked every vacuum hose on the car and there are no leaks and the hoses are not collapsing. After replacing all of this the rpms race, it accelerates by itself, and stumbles while I am driving. This makes it hard to stop since the rpms are not dropping as they should.

Now for the weird part of this all. One night as I was driving home I hit my brights and the car stumbled and jerked. I tried it again and the same thing happened. It stumbles pretty much whenever I turn on anything electrical in the car. Now yesterday coming home I went to pass a car and while in the throttle (going 40 mph) the car started to stumble and sputter.

I have begun checking the CPS and am wondering if this could lead to this at all or not. If so I have found that with the ignition on there is no power to the CPS connector and the CPS itself is at 401 Ohms. Could anyone possible tell me if this is correct or not.

I don't want to keep throwing money into it and not have the problem get any better but I would love to have my car back. Maybe I'm just not the mechanic I thought I was or something that I haven't checked is wrong.
 
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#3 ·
Open your hatch up, find the black rubber "boot" that goes from the car to the hatch door and peel back the boot exposing the wires and look for any cracks in the wires insulation. Wrap each cracked wire with electrical tape. It has solved many electrical related problems.
 
#4 ·
this is indeed a common issue. But to me it sounds like your throttle position sensor is malfunctioning. it is approximately a $25 part at the local auto parts store.....just pay attention to the way the one on the car is pointing and install the new one exactly the same....if you install it pointing a different direction it will read incorrectly AND damage it.
 
#6 ·
Ok I replaced the pcv valve and the line. The line I bought is a little pinched but not to bad temporary until I got to ford and buy the right one. The car still stumbles and idles high but not as bad as before. Tomorrow I will go get a new tps and see if that helps. Thanks for the tips
 
#9 ·
You can use the electronic odometer trick to monitor voltage while you drive. There's no odo test function for amps that I know of though. This can be a handy trick for problem diagnosis. Usually the alternators on these cars are tricky, but don't cause high idle issues. You might also have a TB that someone fiddled with the throttle plate stop screw.
Key off, press and hold odo reset button. Turn key on while holding odo reset. The needles will jump, and the odo will read [test], release odo reset button. Now each time you press and release the odo reset button you will scroll through one of 30 test functions. Look for the one that reads [bat 12.2], and expect it to read about -.2v from what you read on the terminals. The odo will remain in test mode until you turn the key off, so simply start the engine, and now you'll be monitoring alternator voltage while you drive.

The TPS replacement, follow this procedure: remove both screws, but hold TPS in place. It will twist under it's own spring towards the air intake. This is what it should look like when you install the new TPS, then you turn it back to line the screw holes up. Some people make the mistake of installing it with the screw holes lined up, then forcing it with the screws to be flush with the TB face. That's how it gets broken. It happens often enough that I always ask about that when problems show up right after TPS repair.

PO171 is our typical DTC that points to a bad PCV vacuum line that causes high idle. However, other vacuum leaks can cause high idle. Have you checked the intake manifold bolts? Also, some people have missed the IAC gasket, and installed a new IAC with 2 gaskets. Ford is known for not using gaskets on some parts- the IAC is one of them, but typically with aluminum intakes, there is a gasket. If you check those intake manifold bolts- tighten from center to outside.

Forgive me if I'm too rudimentary, we sort of assume nobody knows anything until we know better.
 
#10 ·
Ok sorry for the delay. I bought an new tps however it was the wrong one (manual trans one). So I ordered the Motorcraft one and got it yesterday. This one doesn't seem to have a spring to make it return to its original position. Is it supposed to? Maybe I have a defective one because now the car shifts like the sensor isn't working. I can't track down another one to compare it to. With it in though it seems to be driving/idling a lot better besides the rough shifting. I also bought the correct pcv line so that is installed correctly now.

The alternator is working correctly and putting out about 14 volts.
 
#11 ·
After you put your new parts on did you disconnect your negative side battery cable to reset your ECU?

If you haven't , you could try that . Leave the cable disconnected for around 10 minutes, then put the cable back on and start the car as normal and let it warm up as usual until you see the rpm drop to normal operating temps . Then take it out for about a 20 minute drive so the ecu can relearn the new parameters with the new parts .
 
#14 ·
Is your car an automatic? Because if it is then its probably not the right one. At least ford says that they don't make them anymore. They only sell the whole throttle body assembly.

My car is still messed up I have no idea what is wrong with it. It was better but now it's back to the same.
 
#15 ·
Yes my car is an automatic. This blog has solved the mystery for me. I contacted Ford today, and at first he told me I needed to purchase part# 9B989, but after I further questioned him about the "low-down", "money hungry", revision of the throttle body, which requires a different TPS, he told me I needed to get: The throttle body; 2M5Z-9E926-BB and a new wire connector; 1U2Z-14S411-AFB. I started to purchase the more expensive Motorcraft TPS, but from what I'm reading I guess it doesn't really help much. I guess I will have to go to a junk yard Friday because I refuse to replace a part that is still working properly----so frustrated!!!
 
#16 ·
Throttle Position Sensor Connector

Can someone please help me. I am literally sitting her with tears in my eyes[xx(] as I typed this because I am so frustrated with the confusing info I have been getting from so-called professionals[werd]. I have purchased the re-manufactured throttle body from Advance Auto, but of course now I have to buy the wire harness, a.k.a., or pigtails or throttle position connector. 1U2Z-14S411-AFB this part number keeps coming up for a Ford Mustang, and not for my 2000 Ford Focus ZTS, DOHC, Zetec 2.0.L engine, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (sorry I am not yelling, but just want to make it clear what type of car I have)----PLEASE! PLEASE! PRETTY PLEASE WITH ICE CREAM AND SPRINKLES ON TOP can you please give me the correct part # for the TPS connector. Please and thank you. I love this website, without you guys I would have NEVER come this far. This has been a nightmare, but also a learning experience for me[loveff]
 
#17 ·
take a picture of the TPS's connection, I'll try to grab you a pigtail from the junkyard and could mail it to you for the cost of the mailing envelope.
 
#19 ·
Sometimes you spend more time and effort trying to save a little money than it's worth. You can get the TB with the TPS from Rock Auto for about $115 including shipping- maybe $120, but Atlanta should have inexpensive shipping like Memphis. The part cost is $108, and that includes a $36 core so you can spend another $10 to ship it back and get $36. I've never done a core with RockAuto before- they might send you a shipping label, so you won't even have to spend a dime to send the old part back in the box that the new one came in. Total cost to you after the core is returned should be like $80, give or take a few on shipping. For a TB with a TPS- that's cheap.

This is a different part number, so you should check that out. I've been working on cars ever since I could reach the accelerator and brake. I can tell several stories where I tried to save money by rigging things up and failed miserably. I'd end up spending more waiting around paying gas to friends and straining relationships than I would've spent originally to simply get the bolt-on part. Sometimes I ended up getting the bolt-on part after I spend weeks or months burning up money trying to save a few pennies. Heaven only knows how many days you've already taken off your life due to stress.

Part manufacturer: A-1 CarDone
Part # 671003



To look this up, go to www.RockAuto.com, select 2000 Ford Focus, select 2.0L L4 DOHC engine, a list will pop up, scroll down to Fuel/Air, under Fuel/Air select Throttle Body. Don't even look under TPS, all that is there is for manual transmissions.
 
#20 ·
I couldn't have said it better,Whynotthinkwhynot. In my earlier yrs., I'd go to the junk yards and pull parts for my cars only to be replacing them in days. I guess when the funds are running low one has to make ends meet to keep their junk running. FMC has to worry about warranting their parts and do not want to do the job a second time for their customers.That's why the quality standards for FMC parts have to be much higher. imo.
And no I'm not a service writer for Ford Motor Co.
 
#21 ·
Thank you Hurtinfocus for offering to send me the connector. I truly appreciate you trying to help me. I have gone ahead and purchased the wiring harness from Ford, and hopefully it will be here this week, and I am crossing my fingers that it is the correct one due to all the conflicting info I have received from Ford.
 
#22 ·
Whynotthinkwhynot you have seriously MISREAD my post. I have already purchased the throttle body assembly w/TPS from Advance Auto (As I mentioned in my previous post.), and after they deducted my 30% discount, plus my $25 rewards coupon, shipping, taxes, and core---I only spent $66 total. I was only asking someone on this blog to clear up the confusion on which WIRING HARNESS, A.K.A. TPS CONNECTOR I needed to fit the new TPS. I had received conflicting information from Ford parts, Oreilly's, and Ford dealerships---some were telling me to get part# 1u2z-14s411-AFA and some were telling me to get 1u2z-14s411-AFB. Fortunately for me I have another vehicle to drive while dealing with this situation. My only stress was coming from incompetent, so-called part specializes who don't have a clue about what their talking about. But anywhoo, thanks for your help anyway.
 
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