In case the inertia switch is bad for some reason- which is doubtful- unplug it, and use some wire to bridge the 2 points on the connector. That will bypass the inertia switch completely.
The fuel pump module is under the back seat on the passenger side. There's not a whole lot you can do here except check to see that there is 12v on the input side when the key is ON. The fuel pump connects to it on the side that goes through the floor.
Problems with the fuel sender might cause issues, but I'm unsure how to diagnose. I would expect a DTC from that one. I wouldn't expect a DTC from a bad fuel pump, or inertia switch.
Your start problem- runs for up to 30 seconds then dies- seems to me like the fuel system is allowing some fuel to get in the lines, then it when that runs out the engine dies. Since you've opened the lines up to air now- it might not do that again.
Um, for future reference, I don't recommend disconnecting fuel lines, and then cranking the engine to see if fuel comes out. I'm sorry I don't have pics, but I do have a friend who can tell you that the smallest spark you can't see from a bad spark plug wire will ignite that fuel and give you 3rd degree burns quicker than you can figure out how to put the flames out. He can also tell you how someone blasting an ABC extinguisher on you can give you lung problems even if it does stop the flames. Keep that stuff in mind next time you want to test fuel and use the electronic odometer trick to find fuel pressure- look for the reading [FP 111] in kpas. If you need to double check the fuel sensor for whatever reason, then get another under-hood fuel line and cut in a mechanical FP gauge.
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