I have never seen/heard of a Fuel Pump Driver Module going bad, on any Ford.
It's not the problem.
I would be more apt to believe that either the tech misspoke or you misunderstood. The fuel pump in newer vehicles is commonly referred to as a module. This is due to the parts involved with it's proper operation. The module consists of a canister that houses the pump and the fuel level sensor/arm. It's a few parts functioning as one, definition of a module.
On the early Foci there was a "Customer Satisfaction" program where if you experienced stalling under cornering or any other condition Ford would replace the module free of charge. This was not a 'recall' as some claim it to be. There are different legal obligations to each.
The CS had a time expiration and was capped at cars built after mid-year 2001.
It is no longer active. Expired about 4 years ago IIRC.
So it is a very good idea to replace the module with the new one. Ford updated the design. The problem was linked to design flaws in the module/canister. The physical pump itself was not the problem directly.
There is a lot of misunderstand on this entire subject.
The facts are, the pump was not the problem, it was never a recall, if you don't replace with the update module you will have problems again.
Now as to your specific problem,
Yes it does sound like a fuel related issue. Next question is, what module was it replaced with? (if the top had springs it is the correct module, you also should have had to cut the plastic tabs from the bottom inside of the fuel tank)
If it wasn't the update pump, it will be fine for a while, best guess is more than 40,000 miles. Well enough time to get you money's worth out of it and save for the next time.
It can happen that a non-Ford pump is DOA. You wouldn't be the first person to experience this unfortunate situation. Talking with the parts store and inquiring about their return policy would be a good idea here. And be polite to them. It wasn't their fault.
Do you happen to know if there are any pending/stored codes?
For this you'll need an OBDII code reader. You can 'rent' one from most parts stores.
Or do you happen to remember any codes the shop may have told you? (maybe they are listed on the work order)
Having a code to go on helps greatly.
Two easy things you can check for free are the fuse's and the Fuel Pump Inertia Switch.
Fuses will be listed in your owners manual. Trust the manual and nothing listed on the fuse box covers, I've found more than a few cars where the covers don't match the fuse circuit.
If you don't have an owners manual you can acquire one by clinking this link and downloading it --> http://www.motorcraftservice.com/?li.../01focog4e.pdf
The inertia switch is located on the passenger side, kick panel. You'll see a small triangle'ish shaped plastic tab. Remove it and push the button inside down.
Try to start the car.
If it starts the switch was activated somehow. One way I've seen it be falsely activated is due to wire strain. If the wires do not make good contact, power will be removed form the fuel pump, and the car stalls.
Let me know what you find and I/we can probably help further.