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Old 08-25-2012, 04:46 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Tiger-Heli View Post
Down to just one question and a couple of comments:

Okay - I wasn't really sure what the purpose of the project box with all the epoxy and hot glue was. I'm not criticizing your design - you did the hard work and did a lot better than I could with this - but, the "Module" is basically just two relays, and the relay sockets come with clips to join them together - if/when I attempt this, I'll probably just use two of these (or similar):

I was going to say that it would be easier to use the factory wiring since it is already run from the C144 connector back to the BCM rather than running new wire all the way back to the fog lights - but I re-read the thread and saw that you did that already.

You gave part of the number already, but the original fog light harness is part number 7C2Z15K867BA (Bumper connector C144 to Fogs). It lists for $75 and can be ordered for around $55 and includes the park assist connectors, but I don't think that's a problem. Your solution was without a doubt less expensive and looks professional, but if I am going to void the parking light warranty, the WAF will be a lot higher if I do it with an official Ford harness than with a bunch of pin contacts from Mouser and a soldering iron on the kitchen table.

Final question (for now at least) - Like you, I would prefer to use the factory switch (cleaner, more professional look, less hassle from dealer or trade-in, etc.), but I have almost come to the conclusion that I should just ditch the idea and go with your solution of a toggle switch and two relays (almost guaranteed to work, potentially $85 to $235 cheaper), but could you verify my logic on the following:
  • The fog light fuse should be F75 (need to verify in OM). If there is not resistance on the F75 socket (not terminals for the fuse to connect to), the BCM does not support fogs and I have to either use your solution or (maybe) replace the BCM.
  • If the ARE wires on the F75 socket (and also especially if there are mating pins on the brown wires at C2280D Pins 18 and 19), the BCM "might" support fog lights, but there is not an easy way to test this as it is triggered by a data signal. The only test would be to buy the headlight switch with fog lights ($85) and see if the fogs work then. (And since it's an electrical item, I probably can't return it if it doesn't work.)
  • If the new switch doesn't work, I still might not be completely out-of-luck. The fogs might still work if I get the dealer to flash the BCM with the as-built codes from a 2013 Focus SE with 201A - but that is typically around $150 (I think), and not sure if that would work or might cause other problems. (And if it doesn't work, I'm out $235) and would still end up having to fall back to your solution.
  • I tried putting the VIN of a 2013 SE that does not have fogs into the ETIS system: and it came back with "LESS front fog lights", but I think this is just info Ford manually put into a database - not necessarily what is reflected in the as-built codes on the BCM - but I could be wrong.

Thanks again for all the help!!!
If the BCM has the fuse terminals and the pins for the foglight output wires, it "should" support foglights, but they may or may not be enabled. Like you said, the only DIY test that could be done to verify would be to connect the fog equipped headlight switch and hope it works. However, if you have already installed the lights and bumper harness, you might be able to get the dealer to test the BCM for fog light functionality They can go in to the lighting diagnostic section and command the foglight circuit on using IDS to verify the integrity of BCM's foglight circuit. (even if using the non fog headlight switch).

When I was researching this project, I found that the F-150 started using this same setup our Focus uses, starting last year, but they did release a fog light kit. depending on the trim level it requires replacing the BCM and having it flashed. This being true, replacing the BCM in the Focus and reflashing it, should also be possible... Although I don't know how much it would cost to have that done, it is probably not the most economic solution, but would be required to be a completely factory style install.. Even a used BCM from a wrecked SE (or higher) trim theoretically should work, but it may need to be flashed (or the car won't start with it). Like I pointed out in my write up, I suspected that I could have BCM compatability problems, so i bought a used switch from ebay dirt cheap, so that if it didn't work (which it didn't).. I wouldn't be out the full retail cost of a new switch.

If you can buy the bumper harness cheaply enough, it will save you the steps of having to build that... I work in the wiring harness industry and had the ability to get all the components for almost nothing in cost, (i gave the mouser part numbers so if someone chose to build it, they could source the components). And I'm sure if they found out at work that I just "bought" the harness instead of building my own, I'd never hear the end of it...

At any rate, when/if you try to do this, I hope my experience doing this saves you some frusteration and headache in getting everything to work correctly.
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