Re-tighten the hose clamps after several drive cycles!!
Ok, so TWICE now I've been moofed by the hose clamps popping off of the silicone intake manifold connectors - and as we know, that causes a VERY rough running engine.
Both times I've not been far from home, thank goodness.
Question/study underway:
How many times / what is the frequency of a retorque of the hose clamps is required before they stay in place?
havent had an issue since i put them on in 2009....
you sure the boot and/or clamps are seated properly when you install?? Did you pull the fuel rail to get the most access? I remember getting the #4 cyl (drivers side) on last and it was the most difficult. the bottom edge didnt want to go around the upper intake (part not attached to head). I put the couplers on the head side first, tightened those clamps and then started with #1 and worked my way across.
yup, and everything was snugged up tight, even new o-rings on the injectors for piece of mind...
I know it sounds like I moofed somewhere, but it's pretty easy to tighten hose clamps.
I use the "stock" custom molded- to- fit hoses that Ford provided for all three of my SVT's, NA, Turbo, and SC. Ford clamps are even sweet with the tight thread count.
I had the same issue with an Iceman intake (before I switched to CAI)... same deal with brand spankin' new VF polyurethane mounts; checked 'em a week later and two of the mount's bolts were out a few threads.
Bingo, dude. Thanks for the patience in pointing out this possibility.
The 'ear' that should have had a bolt holding down the mani was broken. Bolt is long gone, about 1/4 inch gap from the ear to the block.
Being rather Bohemian, and quite clever [~] I found a bolt with the right thread and a 1/8" x 3/4" x 2" double-slotted steel plate (I don't throw 'good' stuff away!)
I cut one end open to fit either side of the reinforcement up on the broken ear, loosened one side of the mani boot screws for some 'give' and torqued down the new Mickey-Mouse fix.
How'd THAT thing break? Who knows, I wasn't that rough... Oh, well...
Just did this last night. It's not too hard. The support is right under the #3 intake runner (3rd one from the drivers side). And you can definitely see it from the underside of the car.
I had to remove intake to change the starter and am getting code 171, too lean, I have looked at the boots and hoses and can't find anything that would cause a vacuum leak. Does anyone have any clues?
spray from carb cleaner and see. the vac lines are hard and can crack where you cant see it visually
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