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Old 06-30-2012, 08:15 PM   #19
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The Install...

Ok how to build the Fog Control Relay Module..

1. Strip both ends of the fuse holder 1/4 inch

2. On one end, crimp a 1/4 male blade terminal, and solder the other end to
Terminal 30 on the FIRST relay...

3. cut a piece of 14 gauge red wire about 2 inches long and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Solder one end to terminal 87 of the FIRST relay and solder the other end to Terminal 30 of the SECOND relay

4. Cut 2 pieces of 14 Gauge Red wire about 5 inches long and strip each end 1/4 inch. Using a black paint marker Paint a stripe on both wires. twist one end of each wire to the other wire and solder this side to Terminal 87 of the SECOND relay.. make sure both wires are secure on the terminal. Then put a 1/4 inch male blade terminal on each remaining end of both wires. This completes our fog light output circuit.

5. Cut a piece of Yellow 18 gauge about 5 inches long and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Solder One end to Terminal 85 of the FIRST relay and put a 1/4 male blade on the other end.

6. Cut a Piece of White 18 gauge about 5 inches long and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Solder One end to Terminal 85 of the SECOND relay and put a 1/4 male blade on the other end

7 Cut 2 black 18 gauge wires 5 inches long and strip 1/4 inch on each end.
Solder one end of the first wire to Terminal 86 of the FIRST relay, and Solder one end of the second wire to Terminal 86 of the SECOND Relay.. take the remaining ends and place both ends in to the same 1/4 inch male blade terminal and crimp into a double up. this completes our Ignition and Parking Light signal circuits with thier grounds.

Diagram below..

Once everything is soldered together and terminated securely. (I suggest soldering the crimps of the terminal too just to be on the safe side) Place your relays, and bundle the wire neatly inside the Project Enclosure box from radio shack.. in whatever way you can get everything to fit inside without nothing touching each other.

Next you'll need to tape all six terminals together in to an inline terminal block with about a 1/4 of an inch clearance between each terminal. make sure they're taped really well so they can't move around.. A broken piece of popsicle stick or something small like that placed against the sides of the terminals and taped in place to help hold everything together makes this easier.

Finally you want to keep the fuse up out of the top of the box along with your terminal block as you begin to fill the box with epoxy or hot glue. (I was going to just use epoxy but found it was taking A TON of epoxy to fill it up and the cost was getting high so i used hot glue instead to keep it from costing TOO much. As the box gets closer to being full, position your terminals in place where you want them, along with the fuse holder, Remembering to keep the terminal blades and fuse insertion point above the level of the Hot Glue or epoxy.. Once the Potting material (Hot glue or epoxy) sets up, it will hold your terminals and fuse holder in place so they wont move. It will also secure and insulate everything inside the box to keep it from moving around and shorting against each other..

Once everything sets up and cures (or cools down) clean any excess potting materials off the mating surfaces of the terminals and besure the fuse is still accessible. and its ready to install in the car...


WARNING!! Even though this has been tested and works flawlessly on my car, remember it is an unauthorized modification and does VOID your warranty on anything related to the parking lights, Fog Lights or Ignition feed to the BCM. Also remember that the BCM is fragile and can die easily if you DONT know what you are doing or allow something to short to ground... And its not cheap to replace. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!! If you screw up your car or yourself... I aint liable for it.

Now that we got that out of the way...

1. Be SURE the ignition switch and headlight switch are OFF before beginning!

2. Remove the Glove Compartment...

A. Remove the Access Panel to the Passenger side Fuse Block (this is the BCM). Then,
Pry the passenger side Dash cap thing off the dash where the door
Rests against the dash when closed.. Its held on with clips and just
Pulls off... You will see a torx screw under there that holds the
glovebox in...

B. With the glovebox open remove the 2 screws at the top of it.

C. Under the dash, Remove the last 2 screws and pull the glove box
toward you to remove... (Toss it in the backseat for now just
make sure none of your junk falls out of it)

3. You should now see the Body Control Module and all its wiring.. (Notice the High quality factory taping job Ford did when building the harnesses).

4. Remove Connector C2280G FIRST (it has the big fat red and yellow wires)
at the top of the connector is a black lever looking thing... just pull up on
it as you ease the connector toward you... Using a 10-12 Gauge T-Tap,
Splice a 14 Gauge Red Wire to the Big fat Red 10 Gauge wire in the
connector. (Position #2). Put a fully insulated female blade terminal on the other end of the wire and connect it to the BATT Terminal of the Fog Control Module. Do NOT reconnect this connector to the BCM yet.

5. Remove C2280B from the BCM... You will have to pinch the side of the connector to release the locking tabs that are holding the locking lever down. While holding the locking tabs in, Pull the Locking Lever out and push it as far as it will go while pulling the connector out.. (You will also have to remove a clip that holds the harness to the BCM mount so you got a little more room).

Once it is off, align the guide hole in the Locking Lever with the tab on the thing it pivots on and pull the lever off the connector body.. Next, using a side cutters, cut the cable tie holding the harness to the connector's strain relief (whatever you do, DONT accidently cut any of the wires) and using a small flat blade screwdriver or your fingernail, pry the ends of the strain relief away from the connector body and slide it away from the connector so you can see where the wires actually go in the connector... Using a red (18-22ga) T-Tap, splice the Purple/Green stripe wire to a piece of 18 gauge white wire. WARNING.. there is a look a like wire in this connector (green/purple stripe) that we DO NOT want to confuse with the wire we need.. be careful) The wire we need is in Position 1 of the connector.. Also this is a very thin wire (20 gauge) so be very careful not to rip it in half when trying to t-tap splice it with the 18 white we are making. Again put a fully insulated female blade terminal on the other end of our 18 white... and it will connect to the Parking Light Circuit of our Fog Module...

6. Once spliced, Put the strain relief back on the connector and slide it until it clicks in to place, retain all the wires back to it with a 4 inch cable tie, like it was originally, and put the locking lever back on the connector. Position the connector in the socket its supposed to go in to, and push the locking lever back in to its locked position until it clicks... Pull slightly on the connector to make sure it aint going anywhere...

7. Pull C2280D from the BCM... Remove the locking lever, and the strain relief.

8. Pull outward on the very edges of the Red End cap that goes on the front of the connector and while holding the edges out, pull the Red Locking Cap away from the connector. Locate Terminals 18 and 19. (Each are Brown wires) Remove these wires from the connector (see Image below for details) and cut the terminals off. Isolate these wires out of the bundle for at least 8 inches or so, or as far you can get them separated and put a fully insulated female blade on each one... These will plug in to the Fog OUT terminals on our Fog Control Box. Re attach the red locking cap to the BCM connector, push down on it until it clicks to lock the remaining terminals in place.

(**Notice how the corrisponding mating pins for these terminals are missing in the body control module socket along with a bunch of others)..

9. Locate the light blue wire (Terminal 9) and using a blue T-tap (14-16 gauge) Splice this wire to a chunk of 18 guage yellow wire. on the other end we are putting a fully insulated female blade and it will connect to the ignition terminal on our Fog Control Module Box.

10. Reassemble the connector and resecure the wires to it with a cable tie and reconnect it to the BCM...

11. Locate one of the Dash mounting bolts that hold the dash inside the car... Remove one of these bolts (I used the lower one of the two). Cut a piece of black 14 gauge wire that is long enough to reach the BCM from here and strip both ends 1/4 inch.. on one end, put the Ring terminal on and bolt it to the body with the dash bolt.. (you might want to put a couple of flat washers on either side of the ring terminal so it makes a solid contact with the body..) And put a fully insulated Female blade terminal on the other end. For now connect it to the ground terminal of our Fog Control Box.

12. Verify no wire conductor is exposed or that anything can short out and reconnect the 2 way c2280G connector into its socket on the BCM.. You will hear something power up as you do so..)

13. Start the car and turn on the lights... verify that Both fog lights are On.
Verify that no warning lights are present in the gauge cluster except the parking light On indicator (NOTE this modification will not turn the factory fog lamp indicator on in the dash... ) and that no warning messages relating to lights are present in the message center..

14 Verify the fog lamps are functioning correctly in all operating modes

Key off - Fog lights off regardless of headlamp Switch Position.
Key On - HeadLights Off - Parking Lights Off - Fog Lamps Off
Key On - Headlights Off - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On
Key On - Headlights ON LowBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On
Key On - HeadLights ON HighBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On.

Key Off - Headlights Off - UnLock Car with Key Fob (or open car door with key off) - Park Lights On - Fog Lights Off..

15. Verify Fog Lamp Beam Aim and Adjust if needed using the adjustment screw on each fog light...


1. Disconnect the Parking Light terminal from the fog lamp module box.

2. Choose a convient location to install your fog light rocker switch... (I am going to put mine in the little cubby thing next to the shifter that is worthless for almost anything else except maybe a bit of change..) drill your hole to the correct size and mount your switch in whatever way is applicable to your chosen switch design..

3. Extend the parking light wire from the Fog Control Module to the source pole on the switch...

4. Run another wire from load pole on the switch back to the fog control module box parking light terminal.
OPTIONAL: Run a ground wire from the Earth/Ground Terminal of the switch to a good solid ground. Mine is really bright so i may put a resistor in the ground wire later to tone that LED down a bit.

5.. Once everything is routed where you want it to go, Tape up the harness bundle for the fog control module neatly.. and mount the fog control module where it will be hidden yet able to be securely attached to the car somehow.. I plan to cable tie mine to the BCM mounting bracket next to the BCM). cable tie up the harness in to place so it looks nice...

6. Install the Glove box in reverse order that it came out..

7. Now your S model more closely resembles an SE, than an S. Enjoy the rewards of your labor...

For those that have made it this far, I congratulate you. I know its been a long wait.. and at times seemed to look like it wasnt going to go anywhere.. but.. in the end.. redneck perserverance pays off and if you want it to work bad enough, you'll find a way..

Last edited by Chaddz3; 07-05-2012 at 01:18 PM.
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