Last set of photos.
The Rockford amp I purchased comes with a remote subwoofer level knob, which is nice. I ran the cable for this in the car's roof up the left side. Why, you ask, didn't I run it along the floor? Well, my dealership ran a cable for my aftermarket rear sensing system in the same place along the left side of the roof, so I figured I'd just follow their lead. Why reinvent the wheel, right? It's only one small wire.
All I had to do was sneak the wire from the amp behind the same panel I used to conceal my ground wire and from there just tuck it into the rear door molding. I threaded it above the airbag on the side pillar (don't wanna get in the way of that thing) and in the front door molding down to the fuse box. I have the wire coming out of the fuse box and have the sub level knob right under the headlight knob. I mounted the knob with mounting tape, but that's been coming off lately so I may sack up and mount it with the included screws-- just gotta find the time to drill the holes for it.
The final task to complete the install was to install the speakers. I decided to tackle the components first. I won't go into how to remove the doors as there is plenty out there already on this topic.
As Yanner and others have noted, the Polk tweeters fit very well into the stock housing. As pictured below, I pulled one of the plastic tabs off with needle nose pliers (it's the tab that doesn't have a barbed edge) and the Polk tweeter basically snapped into place there. I used a little duct tape to make sure that sucker won't pop out once it's installed. (Don't judge.)
The crossovers fit nicely into that little hole in the door foam. I didn't even use anything to adhere them to the door in there, I just stuck them in. I've already had to reach inside the door and pull them out once to adjust the tweeter level, so I don't think you'll want to mount them unless you end up hearing them start knocking around in there or something.
The two wires that you'll wanna send to the input terminals on the crossovers are both black, which was a big inconvenience, because it makes it impossible to distinguish positive from negative if you lose track (which I did). To figure out which is which again, you'll have to get at the wiring harness you just finished soldering up and use a multimeter to find which pin corresponds to which wire.
The black wires are also too short to reach your crossover if you put it where I put it, so I had to solder on an additional few inches of speaker wire to the black wires to make them reach.
As far as setting the tweeter level, +0dB sounded good to me when testing it out at first, however after driving with it for a while I needed to cut the tweeters to -3dB. As I'm sure you've noticed the rear stock speakers can't reproduce high frequencies for crap so once I got the Polk coaxials in there the whole system brightened up and the tweeter level needed to be cut.
Putting the coaxials in the rear doors was simpler. This time, your wires are colored appropriately so you won't have to figure out your polarity from scratch. However, you will still have the problem of the wire being too short. You could
cut the wires inside the door and make them reach, I guess, but I decided to just go the safe route and extend the current wire and route it back into the door.
Oh, PS, the rear left positive wire will be white/green as opposed to the brown/green listed in a previous post.
And, finally, I put the sub in the trunk and hooked it up the amp with a very short speaker cable. Simple.
I guess that's it! The system sounds great, and I haven't noticed any noise or vibration problems yet. If I had to give one word of advice it would be to not underestimate the value of a pair of work gloves when trying to reach into the tricky, tight spots behind panels, under carpets, etc.
Let me know if there's pics of any of the "finished product" you'd like to see.