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MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101

446K views 1K replies 216 participants last post by  RedFocusSEGuy 
#1 · (Edited)
Just did my first oil change on the 2012 Focus. Thought I'd help those who haven't done it yet.

What you'll need: 15mm wrench, T30 torx, 1.25 gallons of 5W-20 Oil, Oil Filter ( FL-910S )




Raise the car. I used a floor jack at the front driver jack point (see manual), then braced with a jack stand to prevent getting killed. I think ramps would be easier.


Remove the felt panel by removing the 8 torx bolts. If you remove the bolt shown at the red arrow last (front center of car), the panel will stay up nicely. Supported by the notches shown with the yellow arrows.
Don't bother considering cutting a hole in the felt panel to get access to the oil filter. You'll need to remove the panel to get to the drain plug anyway. It comes off easy enough.




Change the oil filter and drain the oil. I didn't need an oil filter wrench because the oil filter is VERY accessible and could grab it with two hands. When replacing the filter, wet the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil, wipe away any dirt on the gasket surface of the engine and screw the new filter in until it touches the gasket surface. THEN screw by hand 3/4 of a turn more. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in (20 ft/lbs per Ford shop manual - Oil pan drain plug/Part# 6730/ Torque 27 Nm (20 lb-ft)).




Put 4 quarts of oil in, start the engine and check for leaks. Do this before lowering the car. 4 quarts will fill it enough to measure halfway between the two holes on the dipstick. If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter. After making sure you have no leaks, replace the felt panel, lower the car and top off the oil. Mine took exactly 4.5 quarts to reach the top of the hash marks on the dipstick.



Resetting the oil life monitoring system
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.
For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the START/STOP
button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt
to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be
displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be
displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position.
For vehicles with push-button start, press the START/STOP button to
turn the vehicle off completely.

As of 2/20/2012...
5qts. Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend - 21.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-Motorcraft_8030012-P_N3291M_T|GRP2046_____
18.33 at Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-5W20-5qt/16940217

5qts. Mobil1 5W-20 Synthetic - 36.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-%285-Plus-Quarts-Jug%29-Mobil1_10069913-P_N4019G_T|GRP2046_____

FL-910S oil filter - 3.97 at Walmart
 
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#102 ·
First oil change today,,, at 2185 miles,,,,, because I wanted to. Went with Valvoline Synthetic. Had a good shake down trip to Michigan and back for 1200+ miles. Removing the felt panel was a breeze, the pan and filter very easy to reach with the help of a couple ramps. Registered with Valvoline for their 300,000 mile engine guarantee,,,, just to see how that goes, just in case. I like to keep a car a long time!! We will see.
Appreciate this thread for the info to get me started.
pv
 
#103 ·
For a CYA make sure it meets the Ford spec in your owners manual. Otherwise Ford might try to weasel out of a future warranty claim.

Also wanted to re-iterate that my car also had the spoiler lip thing that has to be removed before the splash shield can be removed. Three screws, and they are a different size than the splash shield screws. The heads are all T30 but they are a different length.
 
#104 ·
I just picked up my 2012 Ti HB on Friday and am sizing up the oil change task but I have a question.

I don't have a garage with lift so I'd need to change the oil/filter without the aid of a lift and I don't think I'm going to be able to handle this task without lifting the front end enough to crawl under. Now, the problem is, if you lift the front up, and I'm thinking of using ramps to lift both front wheels about 8 inches, the car will be unlevel so how would that effect the oil draining? That is, with the nose up in this way will I be able to completely drain the oil?

I've looked through this thread and there's some pictures on about page 3 that seem to show the filter is to the front and the drain plug is to the rear and if that's true then lifting the front end would actually be better for draining -- is my observation correct with the filter to the front and the drain plug to the rear?


Brian
 
#122 ·
My driveway is on a pretty good incline, so what i do is put the ramps on the incline (facing downward), and prop my car up on them. At that point the car is sitting fairly level and i have tons of room to get under it. I'm sure its not necessary, but I do it anyway because its easier than pulling the falcon out of our garage in order to use the only flat surface available (it takes about 30 minutes to move our falcon out, about 25 minutes of which are spent peeling out in front of the house and ripping around town, haha).
 
#108 ·
I used Rhino Ramps. I could fit under, but just barely. It's a very tight fit considering you have to manipulate tools. I can't imagine a creeper would fit.

Also a warning about the filter - a LOT of oil comes out when you remove it. Have the drain pain underneath. My previous cars dripped hardly any oil from the filter and I was caught off-guard and it made a huge mess.
 
#109 ·
Pig4bill,
Yep, it's just enough room. But I used a creeper and I weigh 240. Perhaps it's the dip in my garage floor? Anyway, there is room to reach. You are right, the oil filter pukes a good bit of oil.....also, before that, when you let the drain plug loose it shoots rearward quite a bit so be ware.
pvial[ffrocks]
 
#115 ·
I did my first oil change last Friday at 2866 miles. I used the ramps and that worked pretty good. Used Mobil-1 5W-20 and the Motor craft filter. Total time about 25 minutes -- not bad for the first time.

I used a 5-quart jug bought at Wally world for $27 but eyeballed how much to put in. I have a hard time seeing the correct level on the dipstick with new oil and it was a couple days before I was able to get a good read on it -- it was dead center between the marks.


Brian

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
#117 ·
There were two different plastic ramps at Autozone and I picked up the cheaper ones -- was about $45 if I remember correctly. I chose the cheaper plastic ones because in addition to the 10,000 pound rating the FF is one of the lighter cars around so I don't feel too concerned.

For me, the hardest thing about seeing the oil level after changing the oil is that the new oil is so clean it's really hard for me to get an accurate reading of where the oil level is. I mean, pulling the dip stick out and putting it back in leaves a coating along the tube and when you pull it out that oil get all over the stick so it's hard to see what the level is with all the other oil on the stick.

What they should have on the stick is a couple of metal bands, one above and one below the oil range so that portion of the stick can't contact the tube and screw up the reading.


Brian
 
#130 ·
I did my second oil change this past weekend and after draining the oil I attempted to install a quick drain valve instead of putting the OEM plug back in, but as I was threading it on it was hitting a bump in the case so I couldn't screw the valve all the way on. So, I had to put the OEM plug back in. It looks like I need a kind of stand-off extension about 3/4 inch or so.

Anyway, after changing the oil (Mobil-1 5W-20) I rotated the tires for a second time as well. Car just past 10K miles and I'm averaging a bit over 37mpg for the entire 10K miles...


Brian
 
#131 ·
HI Brian,

Ca you please provide the link to the product that you were trying to use that didn't fit? There are several companies that make this product and I would like to get this quick drain plug as well, just want to make sure that it works.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
#145 ·
Under normal driving conditions, I'd say the biggest difference is how often you change the oil. I can't quote any fancy scientific research but synthetics won't break down as fast as conventional. My recommendation is to change the oil sooner with conventional. Conventional @ 3,000, Blend @ 5,000 and Full Synthetic @ 7,500 to 10,000.

If you live in an area of extremes (high heat, dirt, cold), synthetics in my opinion will protect better and require fewer changes. I'm sure others will offer their opinions soon.
 
#142 ·
Good to know my low oil light works. I had my last oil change done at the dealership (free maintenance plan) and I was getting the low oil light when braking and turning right. I checked my dipstick and it was low (no leaking from the filter or plug).

Those dealerships... always keeping me on my toes.
 
#143 ·
I pop the hood and check before I even pull out of the parking spot. I don't care whether they get pissed at seeing it or not, I hear too many stories like this.
 
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