We could continue to go back and forth on the different types of filters. Its a never ending internet debate, and I doubt we will be resolving it here and now today. :)
Here is some interesting reading if you're bored: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-fi...ltration-test/
I'll still stand by my initial statement: a filter which doesn't function properly without the addition of a sticky substance isn't really a filter at all. The CFM requirements for a 2.0 naturally aspirated engine are EASILY managed with a decent sized air filter (and the ones that come from the factory are more than adequate), and the potential gains for an inefficient air filter in CFM flow are easily outweighed by the potential damage from increased silicone consumption in the engine.
There is also a huge difference between "adequate" and "correct" in my humble opinion. Around here, you can buy quarts of Wolf recycled motor oil for around .79 cents per quart last time I checked. It meets the minimum, adequate requirements to be called motor oil (and the minimum API SJ/SL/SM ratings). Many people use it without problems. Doesn't mean its touching anything I own.
But that's all opinion. If anyone is interested, I would be happy to back up my opinion with fact after a few engine oil analysis. If anyone would like to compare silicone PPM numbers running their oil bathed filter to the numbers I'll post with my current paper filter (and hopefully a future dry media), then I think it should help put another nail in the coffin (but I doubt it will ever end the debate).
I do honestly thank you for the replies. Still not a lot of info being shared out there. I guess I'm either coming off as an a-hole no one wants to help, or no one else has done any of these things and I will be the first to post the pictures and info. :)