First, the engine pull:
This is dangerous stuff, so only a crazy person would attempt to do it.
And I've done it working completely alone.
But if you try too, "read and follow" all safety instructions, etc. "Use at your own risk."
Definitely need the equivalent of a two car garage, with a hard, flat floor. I haven't had to jack up the car, but have slid around underneath it some, especially getting those exhaust and lower intake manifold bolts.
You need a good engine hoist ("cherry picker") and an engine stand. And lots of good metric and general tools, including a Torx(R) socket set. And air tools, especially a heavy duty air gun -- not one of the cheapos. My 700 ft-lbf one barely got the exhaust bolts off at 100 psi. And a couple of oil pans to catch all the antifreeze and oil.
OK -- after all the external parts are off including the head, as described before, it was time to yank the engine. I did _not_ have to remove the:
Fuel line and rail
Power steering reservoir
Radiator or fans
Transaxle (5 speed manual)
or even fully disconnect the starter. They are all laid to the side as shown in the excellent pics (apparently to be posted after the 25th, due to site restrictions on new members). Finally drained the engine oil and removed the filter.
My load-leveler was too big for this tiny block, so I just used a chain and bolts.
There's no bolt holes on either side toward the rear of the block to which to attach the lift. I see special Ford brackets, but they probably assume pulling the transaxle too. So against my better judgment, I had to use two opposing head bolts. Chose the bolt holes with the most meat, and used spacers to reduce the leverage put on the bolts by the taught chain. Worked well. Already have new head bolts in hand for the rebuild.
Used a bottle jack and a block of wood to hold up the bellhousing, and adjusted it and the cherry picker until they seemed to have proportional loads. Then disconnected the five upper and side block-to-bellhousing bolts. The one on the bottom front started, but didn't want to come out due to corrosion. WD-40'd in the hole and put it all the way back in. More WD-40, out, more WD-40, in, etc., while I worked on the other bolts, then the problem one came out.
Now was time to separate the block and transmission. Popped apart easily, but then quickly hit the right side frame rail with the front end of the engine. Expect, too, to lose some paint here. Started gently turning the block toward the back of the car, and raising/lowering the picker, while also moving the block forward. No problem getting off the input shaft (I think will go back on fine; not worried about losing the clutch alignment), but getting the pressure plate to clear the belhousing's front, and the oil pump to clear the framerail was the challenge.
Kept going back and forth, up and down, gently, until the engine was turned about 40 degrees to the rear. Kept a careful watch of the fuel line and cooling fan as they were the restrictions. The AC/alternator/PS bracket only slightly got in the way; I might disconnect the compressor from it and remove the bracket before I reinstall.
The dust plate, between the block and bellhousing, bent a little bit where the starter goes through it, but it easily bent back without deformation.
Once the clutch cleared the bellhousing, it was up, up, and away! As the pic shows ... oh well, soon will show ... no problem clearing the hood or grille.
Despite looking tiny, the block is heavy, so lower it carefully. Once barely resting on the oil pan to stabilize, I test fit the engine stand's mount (fortunately already had the needed metric bolts from a prior engine) and found I needed to remove the clutch and flywheel. The flywheel bolts needed the impact wrench because the crank turns too easily at this point. I should have removed the dust plate too at this point, but was too eager to see inside the engine.
With the block now on the engine stand ...