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Old 10-15-2011, 11:01 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by S0C0nFused View Post
Well, I am late to the party but I will input some info here as regards plugging the holes between the runners for any other folks wanting to do this. As the intake plastic is very hard and can be difficult to epoxy, the preferred method would be to use 'blind rivet nuts'. Specifically, a straight shank with a swag on the barrel. These fasteners are designed to embed into hard plastics. If that is not desirable (due to cost or difficulty pressing them in), then run a cone style steel wire brush through the holes, degrease, rinse and seal with 'PC-7' epoxy. I have had some experience sealing holes in plastics (unfortunately). The blind nuts are better as they have high mechanical grip. PC-7 is best as an epoxy as it will adhere to hard plastics (if prepped) and it is more of a paste/putty so you don't have runout like liquid steel.
Just FYI for future.
You know i haven't done allot plugging holes on plastic, these intakes are more of a composite then a plastic its got fibers in it and seems more brittle it acts allot like cast metal or something.

Anyway since i haven't done allot of work with this kind of stuff i wasnt going to risk sucking chunks of epoxy down into the valves. The way i did it was IMO the safest way to plug them and insure they dont get sucked into the intake.

Another thing i thought of doing was to bevel the back side of the "sleve" hole the flaps pivot in and then fill it. By beveling the hole on the back side as the epoxy, JBweld, quick steel what ever as it sets up that bevel will create a head kinda which i would hope would hold the rest of the plug from pulling threw into the valves. Again i didnt want to risk failure.

Anything metal was the last thing i wanted to use. Im sure sucking a rubber plug down into the intake valve will do just as much damage though.

There isnt much to work with on the sleve. Its about 1/4" thick and it fits tight into the intake runners. The backside is pretty flush.
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