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Zetec Turbo Build: 230-250whp, then 330+whp

175K views 657 replies 57 participants last post by  starfuryt550 
#1 · (Edited)
I thought I would finally post my plans as this is getting much closer to being all put together after a long time collecting parts:

* My goals are 300-330whp once I put in the new engine I am building.
* Current goals on the stock engine are 230-250whp.

I suppose I will start with a parts list, let me know if I am missing anything:

Vehicle:
- 2002 ZX3, manual tranny, 88k on clock.


INITIAL (on stock block):
- Turbonetics T3 super 60 .43 AR turbo, ceramic exhaust coating, polished.
- Turbonetics EVO wastegate (multiple psi springs)
- Custom manifold by TurboFab
- Custom DP and WG dump by Top Speed
- SVT 2.5" trubendz exhaust conversion
- Zetec 2.5" trubendz flex pipe
- 50lb injectors
- 2000 Intake manifold, ported
- Focus Central 70mm throttle body
- 180* thermostat w/new housing
- Lakewood traction bars --> might switch to TopSpeed's new design once out
- FS lower stress bar --> Will have to come off as the dp will not clear with it on
- CFM billet aluminum tensioner
- Massive 3 piece UDP
- Gates racing timing belt and acc belts
- Focus Power piping and intercooler
- Greddy type-S BOV
- Innovate wideband AF gauge
- AEM TruBoost turbo controller gauge
- Autometer digital oil pressure gauge
- STR high flow fuel rail
- EGR blockoff plate
- CFM breather plate
- SCT flash tuner
- TopSpeed battery tray/catchcan, slim battery, new terminals
- New much better conduction 1666 strand power cables, new grounds.
- stage3 coolant tank
- stage3 power steering tank
- JayRacing aluminum coolant junction
- New silicone vacuum hoses
- New billet aluminum vacuum junction
- ARP head studs
- New silicone coolant hoses

12/25/2010
* I am switching all of the cooling system including hoses to -an hoses from 16 for the largest, 12 for mid size, and -6/-8 for smaller lines. Dominic is going to make a me a new -16an billet flange and fitting to attach to the stock thermostat housing as well as fab up an aluminum radiator w/-an fittings and side tanks.

* I am converting the entire power steering system from the retarded rubber and hard lines passing over the header to complete -6an lines with a fluidyne cooler to replace the makeshift crappy stock cooler. (Check posts on pgs 2-3+ for info on this and progress. It will soon be made as soon as the snow stops and I can go outside and take some measurements).


POST BUILT ENGINE:
- 2000 zetec block
- 9.0:1 Probe pistons
- Eagle Rods
- Stock bearings
- New svt oil pump
- new svt water pump
- Centerforce billet 9lb flywheel
- Torsen T2 LSD
- APR flywheel bolts
- ARP main bolts

* I may be missing things I have but I will try and remember...

* All of the above I have already bought and have installed some parts.



My questions are:
1) I need a clutch at some point, im sure it won't last long. I need some recommendations. I dont have a ton of money for this so an Exedy hyper-single for $1,100 isnt good lol.

2) I was going to have Terry Haynes from HMS install my LSD...he recommends getting the tower keyed, recommendations?

2.1) I was also thinking new shift forks in the tranny if i do a complete overhaul?

2.2) I wanted to lower my final drive gear to one from a duratec or zetec to a 3.41 (if i remember the num correctly) with pzev. Reason being to ease the power off the line for better traction.

3) I know my T3 super 60 is good for 325-330 if i remember correctly. What would be a good replacement after I want more power?



I'm gonna have more questions, but I will appreciate thoughts, comments, suggestions, criticisms!
 
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#282 ·
Yeah. Tial fixed the wastegate with no questions asked. I showed up at their facility and they let me wait in their lobby. They sent me on my way this 2 stickers and fixed wastegate. I not sure it made a huge difference. Leaks... Yeah I have a few of those. I've had a new CFM tstat housing installed. It doesn't leak coolant anymore. Although the system isn't getting pressurized. Weird. As for the "oil leak"/ "oil all over my engine bay", the dipstick tube is the culprit. The valve cover gasket is also leaking. Hopefully that will be fixed this week.
After all that...it will still be slow.
 
#289 ·
What do you mean by the engine torquing??

not sure on the Tq but its a F22B2 motor in his accord with Wiseco pistons in it. stock cam, 3in exhaust from turbo and tuned by Speed Industry's. Before he took it apart this winter he was pulling around 15psi. but the turbo had low range Rpm and lost psi near top end till now.
Hmmm we shall see. So his power band moved up now is what you're sayin?
 
#291 ·
I'm nearly positive that would have no impact on the clutch transmission engaging at high RPM. If it were so, if you dropped the clutch and downshifter to 5-6k at like 10-15mph to 1st gear, it would do the same bc the engine is moving a lot!
 
#297 ·
I'll buy some new couplers.

Parts shipped to Top Speed to be finished.
Ordering new slim FAL fan soon and Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate! That's it for parts required for now!

Will be installing a new starter as well and new engine grounds and power cables, 1,444 strands with gold connectors. Should be nice when it's done!
 
#301 ·
Nice , you will be fine with the worm clamps , those your using are red heads and I would put those up against any t-bolt if not better the t-bolts

t-bolts are over rated on most cars and worse over tightened , I have no problem running 25-30 psi with worm clamps , the biggest problem is when hoses are installed the hose and or the area the hose is going on isnt clean and free from oil , clean the hose and surface good and worm clamps will hold about anything

Tom
 
#302 ·
Yeah, they are the good clamps, not the ones that cut into the hoses, either.

Many guys run the old stock ones on boosted cars no problem, so clean new silicone hoses with all new parts should do the job just fine. If it doesn't, I have about a dozen 2" T-bolt clamps anyways!
 
#303 · (Edited)
Finally got my Mocal Thermostalic plate in.

Do I need to use teflon for the fittings? They do have the crush washers and the rubber gasket built into the washer...?


Photo edited with SnapSeed for iPhone. Kickass app, by the way!

Installing this and the remaining parts of the oil cooling system this weekend. Might tackle intake manifold install + vacuum lines if I feel like it, as well as the catch tank lines, running wires from gauges, and other minor stuff.
 
#304 ·
#307 ·
I have the worst luck ever. (This is my Mazda3, daily driver)

I went to change the front endlinks on my mazda before I worked on the focus...

Lo-and-behold, huuuuge problem. There was clanking in the front, and historically it's been from the endlinks. Well, not time time.

The front sway bar is warped and torqued. It's hitting the control arm on bumps on the passenger side as well as the front subframe support, and most importantly, it's been hitting/rubbing on the hard brake line going into the caliper. It's worn through the protective covering and now started to touch the line itself.

Needless to say, I am lucky I looked now before I had a car accident cuz my brake line broke.

I have some other issues as well. ALL the shocks and struts are leaking, badly. Pass endlink is toasted as well. The rear camber arms need to be changed. The hawk pads are near toast all the way around, etc.

So I ordered:
- Hawk HPS pads for all 4 corners
- Brembo blank front rotors
- H&R 24mm front sway bar
- KYB GR2 struts and shocks
- MassiveSpeedSystem rear camber arms
- MOOG front endlinks

Need to buy new strut plate bearing and 2 rear wheel bearings as well. Also need a set of summer tires.

FML. F it real hard. Blah..........

----

On a positive side, TopSpeed is almost done with my parts and I'll have those shortly to put the whole car back together!
 
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