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Replace master cylinder clutch

206K views 157 replies 66 participants last post by  luing 
#1 ·
Well i just replaced my master cylinder clutch and would have loved for more indepth information and some pictures. So here are pictues and step by step information to go along with it.

1. First of this will be alot easier if you take out your front drive seat. Unplug battery as well.



2. start by removing the panal under your steering wheel.



3. Remove Hood release cable and your diagnostic cable.



4. You are going to need to remove your starter safty switch (black)



5. Continue by removing these 3 things
1- Speed control deactivation switch (Green) Turn left and lift small clip.
2- Stop lamp switch (Grey) turn right and lift clip
3- Clutch Position Switch (Red) turn left and lift clip.
They do not need to come off in any order what ever is easiest for you. When removed you will need to put these cables in a safe spot. I put them up by my steering wheel.



6. You will now need to remove both bolts that hold your master cylinder clutch in place. they are 10mm. (note do not pull master cylinder clutch out of compartment until you have drained most of your fluid out so you dont get a pond in your car.



7. after you take those bolts out you will now take off your clutch pedal and spring. (in picture the master cylinder is still on there)



8. You will now remove the pedal assembly so when you put your master clutch cylinder back on you do not snap the white rod like i did :/. There are 4 bolts.



9. In the engine compartment you are going to need to take out your battery and move your fuse box a little atleast i did on my 2004 focus.



10. Drain your clutch/brake fluid. you can use a turkey baster in this occasion.



11. When your fuse box is out of the way you will be able to see where the green rods come through into your engine bay as seen below.



12.There are small butterfly clips on the green parts you can use a small ice pick in order for you to get them out easily. be careful not to loose them there are new ones with your new part but its nice to know you have an extra one if you happen to loose one. (cover the lines with paper towel you do not want to get dirt in them!)



13. Now remove previous clutch master cylinder and install the new one in the previous order. connect all the lines and refill brake/ clutch fluid. Use dot 3 brake fluid. picked it up for about 5 bucks at my local autozone.

14. Heres the rough part it took me a good 45 minutes to find the bleed plug for my clutch you are going to need to bleed your clutch, and maybe your breaks. I did not need to bleed my brakes i left just enough in the reservoir to not need to do that.



You will need to pump your clutch multiple times. YOU WILL NEED TO PEOPLE to bleed your clutch and or brakes.

Goodluck! [ffrocks]
 
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#33 ·
$52, but i get dealer cost. list is $65.

Does anybody have any tips on bench bleeding this thing? i have some lines i use with brakes, but nothing that will seal in these fittings. Could i just submerge both of the lines?
 
#34 ·
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#40 ·
ha, three replies!

i was talking about when you're installing them again.. i made the mistake and left them out when installing through the firewall. i finally got it, and now have carpal tunnel!

another question, how long does it take to vac bleed it?i just checked it again and i'm still getting air..
 
#41 ·
I didnt realize there was another page. Cause i was replying through my phone and nothing was showing up. Do you have a vaccum bleeder or are you gonna do it old school? You will still get a little air if your going old school with it. As long as your clutch feels like it used to and isnt just mushy like there is no pressure than you should be good.
 
#43 ·
Yeah i didnt bench bleed it either and i went the old school way and just pumped the clutch and kept bleeding it. Took me about 20 minutes i believe. I hope this helps. Did you have any other questions?
 
#45 ·
Hows the clutch pedal feel? does it feel like it used to. As long as its not super soft you should be good. Cause i still had a little air when i did mine.
 
#48 ·
How much did you drain out of the reservoir, because there are actually two sides it splts for brakes and clutch. I did not need to bleed my brakes i only had to bleed my clutch. You could try starting the car in neutral, push in the clutch and try to put it into first gear.
 
#49 ·
thanks for the help man.
it turns out, the mityvac sucks air in no mater what. (at least mine does) it wasn't pulling air from the actual system, it was pulling it from the untie and nipple threading.

i closed it back up and put everything back together and took it out for a spin, the clutch felt better than ever! first gear catches A LOT sooner than it once did! great pressure from the pedal itself. brakes felt good. looks like i'm all set. i a little more testing tonight and i'll call it good.

rep coming btw.
 
#50 ·
Thanks man! And im happy to help! anything to help another focus owner! I gotta do my clutch this summer so im gonna try to make a nice how to with lots of pics with that
 
#51 ·
Are there and CMC that are better designed / last longer then others? Mine just started leaking and I don't feel like doing this every 60,000 miles. Thanks for the how to!
 
#52 ·
To the best of my knowledge there aren't to many options. I have only ever seen plastic ones. You can try looking around, but ive never seen anything better. Is this your first time replacing this part?
 
#58 ·
OK, finally got the clutch bled. After a couple of hours trying a mighty-vac and the old fashioned way i still had a soft pedal. Last resort i had a large syringe, put a piece of aquarium tube on it then filled the syringe with brake fluid. Put the tube on the bleeder screw and pushed fluid through the system. Air must have been trapped in the clutchs master cylinder which is the highest point in the system besides the fluid resevoir. While pushing the syringe full of fluid through the system you could hear the bubbles escaping the master cylinder and going up to the resevoir. The pedal was solid instantly!!
 
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