Originally Posted by Grumpy
the_doc735.......If you can rotate the crank so that the piston is around the BDC position, and if you can get a look through the pin hole to see if you can find that (or a) vertical, flat surface on the counterweight that is directly in line (must be perpendicular) with the hole, insert a rod/stick/anything and make a mark inline with the outside surface of the block at the hole. Use that measurement to cut/grind the pin to length. I suppose you could also just get a length of "good" steel rod with a diameter just smaller that the hole thread and if you can find the appropriate perpendicular flat surface maybe it would be possible to "solidly" backup/jam the outside end of the steel rod solidly (and square) enough to hold the crank. I'm a nervous nelly as well thinking about the load on the block sidewall/hole threads etc. when applying the huge loosening/breakaway torque that this puppy appears to require.
I don't know the shape/profile of the counterweight in the zetec SE "FYDB" engine and I would like to see a picture/diagram or [outline] drawing of this component if anyone has one or can even draw one? It almost feels like the sides of the counterweight are NOT flat/straight but curved diagonally from top to bottom [with no abrupt angle surfaces] i.e. a smooth curve?
You are right! ~ the picture may not be the "FYDB" derivative of the zetec SE engine at all? And I also don't like quessing either - LOL! Don't fancy having to take the sump off to get a bent pin out! Lol. Oh dear this is really bad. I feel intimidated and apprehensive about attacking the crank bolt with that pin now, whatever its position maybe! Could it even break part of the counterweight off with the side loading perhaps? Sounds worse than bumping the starter against the floor? LOL! Scratch head