Originally Posted by Grumpy
I expect that you've already sorted this out, but if not.......if you're satisfied that this "locking" pin is the correct one then rotate the crankshaft to a location where you can install it (fully seat it) and then slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the crankshaft contacts the pin. Just as a trial/test I would back out the pin while applying ccw force to the crankshaft and see how many turns out (or threads) it takes before the crankshaft clears the pin. Hopefully it'll take several turns before the crank clears the pin. You should not have the pin "hanging on" by only a thread or two. If you're satisfied, then seat the pin, snug it up, and rotate the crank CCW again until it hits the pin. Ensure that the crank is seated against the pin when you go to loosen the pulley bolt.
the flywheel tool DOESN'T fit my engine.
the crank locking tool only screws FULLY IN when at TDC (not BDC). The crank only appears to catch about 2mm approximately of the tip of the tool when tightend up. I started with a reasonable length breaker bar to see what would happen. I got the crank placed firmly up against the locking tool and gradually applied the pressure. After a moment I was applying moderate pressure to the breaker handle and felt something give way? IT WASN'T THE BOLT!! I carefully removed the pin; it wasn't bent but it looks to me like the crankshaft sheered its way past the locking tool at the very edge/tip that was in contact with its surface? THE PIN WON'T SCREW FURTHER IN!
The pin will tighten up against other parts of the crankshaft, but not fully inserted - there is about 3 - 5 mm of thread still sticking out if I do that. But (if the crank is a smooth surface?) I can't see how that will stop the crankshaft from rotating once I get the breaker bar on the bolt head?
picture of damaged tool: