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Old 12-07-2009, 11:36 PM   #4
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Originally Posted by 02Zetechse View Post
I was wondering if the Fine Members of this forum would be willing to help me gather some information.

I am looking for Tips and Tricks on doing a "Good" job.I know that Spray bombing will never be perfect.

I have heard when using Rustoleum Paint to buy a can of Elmers Spray Adhesive for the cap. They call it a Rusto Fat Cap. Its supposed to give a bigger spray fan and doesnt Sputter like the regular cap.

Anything from Prep to Clear Coating is welcome.

I will update as I find more information

- get a bucket that will hold your cans pf spray paint. Then fill it up with HOT tap water. The can won't explode- don't worry. then put the cans in it so the contents of the can are warmed up before you spray.
- shake the cans really well for a minute or 2.
- hold the can upside down and press the nozzle for a couple of short blasts to clear the nozzle of any dust or old paint.
Ive heard of doing the larger spray tip, but the idea makes sence. Rust Oleum makes a spray paint called Universal. It has a trigger spray on the cap and sprays a fine fan pattern rahter than the oval pattern you get with other spray cans. Now these cans arent cheap but they are the best spray cans you can get. The can also sprays at any angle which is nice when doing cruves and in & outs on the car.

Prep...Simple Green and a green 3M Scotch Brite Pad. Kills two birds with one stone, cleans and removes wax and dirt, the pad lightly scratches the surface which will improve adhesion. Then rinse, rinse, rinse. I always stress this because people will leave the Simple Green on the surface which screws the adhesion.

Primer...Rust Oleum's Automotive Filler Primer. YOu can get it at Wal Mart and Auto Zone. It is a higher building primer that fills light scratches in the surface. Once it has dryed for a day wet sand it with 800 grit paper. Then it gives a ultra smooth base for your paint.

Paint...3 to 4 light coats. Never try and cover the primer in one coat. I wouldnt bother wet sanding between coats. If you take your time on the applacation you wont need to sand.

Clear...Why bother? Its a spray bomb job, just use a glossy paint. All a clear does is protect the coat under it. IMO its not worth the extra time or money on a spray bomb job.

I personally wouldnt put the cans in warm water, I just store them inside 2 days before I plan on using them.

Yes shake them for about 2 minutes. Even tho the ball in moving inside its not mixed all the way.

It is common practice to clear the valve by spraying the can upside down. But if your using any of Rust Oleums Paints it will have a spray any way valve.

If you want links for all the paints just let me know.
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