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Simplified Lunchbox Removal Instructions

99K views 149 replies 77 participants last post by  Mitchellvail 
#1 ·
Simplified Lunchbox Delete (2008 Focus Sedan)

The “Lunchbox” in this case is the resonator at the end of the exhaust system closest to the exhaust tip.

Here's a good link to "How the Exhaust Works", including the resonator.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler.htm

I would like to credit the original thread that I received this idea from written by Jamussport of FF. That thread can be found here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161083

My instructions retain the original exhaust tip (thank you Derek Zoolander of FF for this revision), if you would like to replace your existing exhaust tip while you make this modification refer to the thread above.

Removing the rear resonator will give your exhaust a new, louder tone. Don’t expect NASCAR sound out of this, we’re talking about a Focus here after all.

Here’s a sound clip of mine after removing the resonator. However, I do have a Steeda SRI installed which by itself already adds to the sound from the stock exhaust. I tried to get a sound clip while driving, but with my recorder the wind and road noise washed out the exhaust on the recording no matter where I placed the microphone. And, I swear, I wasted a ¼ tank of gas trying to get that recording!

http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/...us SE/?action=view&current=LunchboxDelete.flv

Cost:
Approximately $17 plus tax

Time to Complete:
45 minutes to 1 hour

This time will vary greatly depending on what tools you have available to cut the exhaust with. See “Tools Required” below.

Material Required:

18” (51mm) of Flexible Exhaust Pipe - 2” inside diameter
$5.99 AutoZone part #17033 – "Flexible Exhaust Repair Kit" is an 18” piece of 2” I.D. flex pipe which includes (1) 2” Exhaust Clamp.

(1) 2” Exhaust Clamp
$2.49 AutoZone part #17124

(1) Exhaust Joint and Crack Seal
$2.99 AutoZone part #00160 (or exhaust seal/cement or your choice)

(1) spray can of Hi-Temp Paint
$5.49 AutoZone part #DE1634 Low Gloss Black Engine Enamel (use any hi-temp paint/color you want)

Tools Required:

Reciprocating Saw with metal cutting blade / hacksaw can be used (see note below)

3/8” and/or 1/2" socket or box end wrench (to fit exhaust clamp nuts)

Sandpaper (pick a grit between 120 or lower, you’re just scuffing the pipe a little with it)

Manual or Hydraulic jack

Jack stand(s)

Wheel blocks

Note: A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) makes this job a snap. If you do not own one, buy one or borrow one from a neighbor. This job can be done with a hacksaw however Jamussport (see link above) required 2 ½ hours just to remove the resonator using a hacksaw. Now that man was determined!

HarborFreight.com has a reciprocating saw available for $39.99, not the highest quality tools you can find but perfectly acceptable for occasional jobs.

Instructions:

Locate vehicle on a solid level surface

Make sure it’s in PARK or 1st gear

Make sure the PARKING BRAKE is set and set good

Block front wheels

Now go back and make sure it’s in PARK or 1st and the PARKING BRAKE is set.

SAFETY FIRST: Allows use jacks stands when you are working under a vehicle. Please DO NOT skimp on this, many a weekend warrior has died when the car slipped off the jack.

Raise left rear to provide access to resonator (position jack correctly on vehicle to avoid damage)

Set Jack Stand(s) in place

Note: Service ramps are a great time saver and I believe them to be much safer than using an individual manual or hydraulic jack. For $39.99 you can purchase a pair of 8000lb Rhino ramps at AutoZone. SAFETY FIRST: Use Jack stands even with service ramps, look under my exhaust tip, you can see one there and there is another one on the other side out of view.




Remove Resonator

The resonator is the lunchbox looking thing welded to your exhaust tip (sorry no picture of it in place, but see removed resonator picture below).

Remove it!

Here’s a picture of mine after it was removed. The cuts I made worked out great for installing the flex pipe. You can adjust these cuts to suite your preference. Just remember “measure twice, cut once”.





Install Flex Pipe

Clean the outside of existing pipe where the flex pipe will overlap it, about 2 inches should do. Also scuff this area with sandpaper to allow for better adhesion of exhaust seal.

I wore rubber gloves for the next part, do not get this stuff all over your hands. It is labeled "WARNING! Eye, skin and respiratory irritant".

Apply a liberal amount of exhaust seal to the outside of existing pipe (the area you just cleaned) and to the inside of the flex pipe before you slip the flex pipe on.

Slide flex pipe on, bending to position tip correctly. (fine tuning of tip position done later)

Now apply a liberal amount of exhaust seal over the end of the flex pipe and existing pipe; fill any gaps between the two. Use enough seal so you don’t even see the joint, basically blend the flex pipe into the existing pipe with the exhaust seal.

Install exhaust clamps (one on each end) and tighten. Position the ends of the clamp up toward the bottom of vehicle so you don’t see them sticking down when viewing the vehicle from the rear.

Check the exhaust seal after tightening clamps, add more if required.

Take a look at your exhaust tip (from behind the car), is it straight and centered? Adjust flex pipe until it is.

Except for painting you are done and you want to wait until after the exhaust seal is dry enough before you paint it. You could of course paint the flex pipe prior to installation, but I was not that smart. [duh] If you do paint prior to installing it you will still need to touch it up as areas that were not exposed on the flex pipe when you painted it will be now.

You can leave the car in position and wait, or carefully lower the vehicle and drive it. The heat from the exhaust will help set the exhaust seal. I painted mine after driving for about 10 minutes.

Yes, you do want to paint the flex pipe. Flex pipe is notorious for rusting quickly; the paint will help delay that process (a little). If this is a permanent addition you might do well by finding an exhaust shop that will bend and weld an actual piece of exhaust pipe in place at a reasonable price.

Also, if you move the flex pipe (or it moves on its own) after it’s painted it will expose unpainted areas. Watch for those and hit them with a spray of paint.

Below are pictures of my completed installation (including paint over spray on heat shield, oh well).







You better appreciate the shine on the tip. Took some time with bug and tar remover and steel wool followed by a waxing to get it looking good again all just for that picture.

Well that’s it; I hope you find these instructions helpful. If I can clarify, correct or just answer a question please don’t hesitate to PM me.
 
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#31 ·
can i just cut it off and leave it for now to test it or will the sound change with the pipe on (planning on a solid pipe bent at a shop)
 
#32 ·
It will still sound the same only that the smoke will be under the car, rather than being deposited behind it. it will only change the sound if you add a muffler. Adding a straight pipe just carrys the exhaust out.
 
#33 ·
thanks. i herd of other people just leaving it off and having no probs with smoke. i guess it cant be any worse than my old f 150 with just the down pipe lol
 
#36 ·
It's not the smoke you need to worry about, it's that nasty carbon monoxide stuff that you can't see or smell that will kill you. Personally I just wouldn't chance leaving the exhaust short and spilling out anywhere under the car.

That's just my humble opinion.
 
#39 ·
Thanks, it is a fun little mod to do while you're trying to decide on, or save for, a new exhaust system.
 
#40 ·
I just had my resonator cut out on friday =D I love the new sound it gives and it even has a slight little rumble.... Only paid the guys $50 too /flex
 
#41 ·
Great price, I couldn't get anyone to touch it for that around here. Any plans for a new exhaust (like 2 1/2" cat back) in your future?
 
#42 ·
Oh definitely, but seeing as how I'm pretty satisfied w/ the sound now w/ the Air box resonator removed and the lunchbox gone it will be a little bit. I wanna get a drop and some interior lighting done, then maybe go for an exhaust.
 
#43 ·
Here is how I did mine, for those that don't want to go with the flex pipe.



I just got two 45 degree bends and two clamps cut right before the resonator on the bend and it came out perfectly centered in the bumper, I just have to hang it and get a tip. Probably won't even bother tho, it's just temp. for a few weeks.

It sounds good do, I was expecting it to be louder, it's just enough to notice but not obnoxious, wish I would have done it sooner.



you can see my nice new shiny blue frpp springs! also
 
#44 ·
Did the removal this weekend. Most of the vid's i've seen don't do the sound justice. On my 2.3l zx3 it just growls a little more and sounds lower. Enough that you can hear it/enjoy it, but could never annoy me/anyone else. The shop I went to said it'd be $100 to weld, so i'm thrilled with the flexpipe. Its hidden behind the bumper too, so it isn't an eyesore. Thanks for the great instructions.
 
#45 ·
Brad,
My guy did mine for $50. He said my piping was 2"?
Cut existing pipe where it goes over rear suspension.
Mandrel bent 2" pipe to fit (2" OD aluminized).
Expanded 2" OD pipe to 2" ID to slip over existing 2" pipe.
New clamp at connection point.
Welded on new hanger rod.
Cut off and welded on existing SS tip.
AND, he did a really nice job!
He said that if I ever sell it and the buyer wants the resonator back on, all he needs to do is to expand a 3" long piece of 2" od to 2" ID, weld it to the resonator pipe, clamp it at
the cutoff place, and cutoff and weld the SS tip back on-$10.
(I REALLY like this guy!)
 
#46 ·
Glad to see everyone having fun with this still. Nice to see the new info added too.
 
#51 ·
i got mine done at my little local tire shop, they fix tires for 5$, they mount and balance for only 10$ a wheel, and cut my lunch box off for only 20 bucks, i love living in san antonio, always a lot of competition with all the little shops
 
#52 ·
I'll probably give this a shot this coming weekend. Lucky for me, a family member owns a large shop so I won't have to pay much of anything other than some supplies. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and run 2.5" pipe from the cat while I'm at it and create my own catback system.
 
#55 ·
uhmm i don't think i even have one... i was under mine and i saw a sraight pipe from the cat all the way back. even looked twice... right under the trunk right? drivers side? yah.. well i don't see it..
 
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