Great write-up - I'm getting ready to do this mod and wanted to point out a couple of things. (I'm one of those people that tends to look at worst case before I attempt something).
The window switch wiring doesn't bother me. I'll probably use the 3M ScotchLok Quik-Taps as someone else mentioned, but there is not much clearance in the connector, so the jammed wire would likely work, and might be a better option for a leased vehicle. In any case, if either of those wires come out, the only consequence is that if either wire falls out, you lose the door lock lights, but you didn't have them at first so no big deal.
The door switch is more of a concern. That is a blade terminal with nothing presently connected to it. If the ground wire comes out, no big deal, you lose the door lock lights as above. However, if the power wire comes out at night, and shorts on a ground point in the door, you could lose all your interior dash lights which might not be good if you are driving on the freeway at the time.
There are a few better solutions that I am looking at:
1) The blue connectors are Molex plugs. The best solution is probably to get the proper crimp on Molex contacts and use these for the new wires. This has the additional advantage that if anyone is working on the car, when they take the connector off, the wires will come off with it. I know Pep Boys sells that style contact and if I find ones that work I will post the part number.
2) I found this website
that recommended soldering the wires - that would work, but if a technician needs to remove the door panel, he either has to desolder the wires or take the wire off at the quick splice.
3) I previously bought these Quick-Slides
from Crutchfiled for another project. The 0.187 and the 0.205 look very similar and I thought they were the same. The 0.110's look like the right size and will fit through the connector if you remove the insulation, but did not seem like they wanted to fit over the terminal - the 0.187 and 0.205 will fit on the terminal, but will not clear the connector, but you could probably either drill out the connector (and electrical tape the slide so it doesn't short on adjacent pins), or dremel down the slide so it was only one "leg" and it would still work and clear the connector.