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Reverse Switch Replacement - How-To (MTX-75)

84K views 31 replies 23 participants last post by  Maddies_syn 
#1 · (Edited)
So around a month ago my and about 5 other peoples cars had their reverse lights go out. Fuses checked out as well as bulbs so the remaining thing was the reverse switch. This is a how-to on replacing the reverse switch on your MTX-75 transmission. This how-to was done on my 2.3 Duratec.


Things you will need
Rubber Gloves
Brakleen (to clean the surround area if you would like)
Flashlight
Torque Wrench
Needlenose Pliers
Sockets w/matching ratchets
-27mm socket (if one has the VF engineering transmission mount center nut)
-22mm deep socket (reverse switch itself)
-21mm socket (stock transmission mount center nut)
-15mm deep socket (perimeter transmissoin mount nuts)
-13mm socket (battery tray nuts and bolt)
-10mm socket (battery terminal nuts)
-8mm socket (cruise control module retaining bolts)
-Any other socket that might be needed for removing things in the way such as the upper intake system and such.

-First using the 10mm socket remove the battery wires and push them aside
-Using the 13mm socket remove the bolt holding the battery retaining plate down
-Remove plate
-Remove battery from car


-Using the 13mm socket remove the three bolts pictured below and remove the battery tray





-This is what it should like when removed. Keep in mind I have the VF Engineering tranny mount.



-Here is what the stock mount will look like if you are stock



-Using a floor jack and a block of wood (to cushion the tranmission) take pressure off the transmission mount by jacking up ever so slightly under the transmission

-Using the 15mm deep socket remove the perimeter transmission mount nuts



-Using the 21mm (if stock mount) or 27mm (if VF) sockets remove the center mount bolt and remove the entire mount.



-Remove the three bolts pictured here. There are two 8mm bolts going into the cruise control module and one 13mm bolt going into the fender of the car




-Using the 13mm socket remove the pictured bolt that is mounted to the shock tower area.



-Using the needlenose pliers crunch that wire holder and push it down through its hole.



-Push that tranny mount tray out of the way so you can access the top of the transmission



-Here is a picture of the new reverse switch. (friggin 40 bucks from the stealer)



-See the old one way down there??




-Unclip its electrical connector

-Using the 22mm deep socket remove the reverse switch.



-Old vs New



-You will notice the switch does not have very much thread on it. So it doesn't take much to snug it down. Tighten it down. Snug but not tight at all. Do NOT reef on it.

-All in
-Now is also a good time to clean any of the grime outta there using the cleaner you bought. Don't get it in the electrical connector though.




-Putting it all back together is the reverse of taking it apart. With a few new things.

-Torque settings for the transmission mounts.
-Perimeter nuts on mount = 35 ft lbs
-Center nut on mount = 65-70 ft lbs

-Before the procedure


-And AFTER!!!



And all your reverse lights woes are solved.

Edit: From the battery being unplugged for a long time the car will idle funny for a little bit. Sometimes as much as 1/2 hour afterwards while driving. This is normal and just the car re-learning its idle.
 
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#10 ·
how do you do it on an SPI? sisters car, sold the zetec back in like 06 thus me not coming around :D anyway... it looks different from the switch they have. so I'm guessing it could be different to do? eh, suppose they should get it done professionally or look for a chilton or something.... but any help would be appriciated! thanks,

Tom
 
#11 ·
Probably a lot the same. I believe the IB5 tranny in the SPI and the MTX found in the rest of the foci (minus SVT) are very similar. I would get the part, see what it looks like and just dig around. Chances are its in the same place or very close.
 
#12 ·
they have the part, that's why I noticed it's slightly different from the one in the pic. I don't have alot of tools here so it's a mission they're gonna have to tackle through someone else :( just found out not only is the safety expired from feburary but the cars not registered since it doesn't have a safety lmao... been driving it around all weekend... it's kinda missing too at times, they changed the plugs and wires so maybe they crossed one or something, but when I crossed my zetecs wires it ran REALLY bad, there was clearly problems lol..
 
#15 ·
I happened to like the knob the last owner put in the car so I didn't want to make any major changes other than disabling the lockout, so I thought I'd share what I did as an alternative.

1. Remove the side "braces" that allow the lockout to move up and down.
2. Run a zip tie through the end of the "braces" and loop/tie underneath the lockout.
3. Trim the end of the zip tie and you're good to go.

Loops removed from the plastic lockout block.

Zip tie the lockout block up and out of the way. Only need to clear a 1/4" or so.

Finished and works great. Want it back to stock? Break out the wire cutters, snip the zip tie and pop the braces back onto the lockout.
 
#20 ·
I just wanted to say thank you and that this post was very helpful!

I will say however that I didn't need to remove the battery, trans mount or trans mount bracket to get at the sensor. It looks like you have an aftermarket air intake and filter. On the 2007 production 2.0L that I have, I was able to remove the aircleaner with 2 bolts and then disconnected the air intake hose by loosening the clamp at the throttle. Then I was able to get at the switch. First, I disconnected the wire and checked if it was the switch that was a problem by jumping the connector with a wire and the backing lights worked. So then I used a 7/8 inch deepwell socket and was able to get in under the trans mount and remove and install the switch. No need to take out the battery or the battery tray. I thought this was much simpler.
 
#27 ·
Just replaced mine using this tutorial

Thank you very much for making this tutorial (especially the pics)!

As usual, I never attempt a major repair with out somebody available to run to the store to get parts or tools. My definition of major repair is anything beyond replacing the air filter or spark plugs. Its just smart to never work alone, you never know when you'll need some help.

Things I discovered while doing this repair:

7/8" deep well socket works well if you didn't remember that the switch was 22mm

13/16" spark plug socket works well for the transmission mount nut

Make sure your jack is in good working order BEFORE attempting this repair - I was lucky, the transmission only dropped about 1 1/2 to 2 inches so I jacked it back up and put the mount back on in a hurry while Dad went to Harbor Freight and bought a new jack.
 
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