So around a month ago my and about 5 other peoples cars had their reverse lights go out. Fuses checked out as well as bulbs so the remaining thing was the reverse switch. This is a how-to on replacing the reverse switch on your MTX-75 transmission. This how-to was done on my 2.3 Duratec.
Things you will need
Rubber Gloves
Brakleen (to clean the surround area if you would like)
Flashlight
Torque Wrench
Needlenose Pliers
Sockets w/matching ratchets
-27mm socket (if one has the VF engineering transmission mount center nut)
-22mm deep socket (reverse switch itself)
-21mm socket (stock transmission mount center nut)
-15mm deep socket (perimeter transmissoin mount nuts)
-13mm socket (battery tray nuts and bolt)
-10mm socket (battery terminal nuts)
-8mm socket (cruise control module retaining bolts)
-Any other socket that might be needed for removing things in the way such as the upper intake system and such.
-First using the 10mm socket remove the battery wires and push them aside
-Using the 13mm socket remove the bolt holding the battery retaining plate down
-Remove plate
-Remove battery from car
-Using the 13mm socket remove the three bolts pictured below and remove the battery tray
-This is what it should like when removed. Keep in mind I have the VF Engineering tranny mount.
-Here is what the stock mount will look like if you are stock
-Using a floor jack and a block of wood (to cushion the tranmission) take pressure off the transmission mount by jacking up ever so slightly under the transmission
-Using the 15mm deep socket remove the perimeter transmission mount nuts
-Using the 21mm (if stock mount) or 27mm (if VF) sockets remove the center mount bolt and remove the entire mount.
-Remove the three bolts pictured here. There are two 8mm bolts going into the cruise control module and one 13mm bolt going into the fender of the car
-Using the 13mm socket remove the pictured bolt that is mounted to the shock tower area.
-Using the needlenose pliers crunch that wire holder and push it down through its hole.
-Push that tranny mount tray out of the way so you can access the top of the transmission
-Here is a picture of the new reverse switch. (friggin 40 bucks from the stealer)
-See the old one way down there??
-Unclip its electrical connector
-Using the 22mm deep socket remove the reverse switch.
-Old vs New
-You will notice the switch does not have very much thread on it. So it doesn't take much to snug it down. Tighten it down. Snug but not tight at all. Do NOT reef on it.
-All in
-Now is also a good time to clean any of the grime outta there using the cleaner you bought. Don't get it in the electrical connector though.
-Putting it all back together is the reverse of taking it apart. With a few new things.
-Torque settings for the transmission mounts.
-Perimeter nuts on mount = 35 ft lbs
-Center nut on mount = 65-70 ft lbs
-Before the procedure
-And AFTER!!!
And all your reverse lights woes are solved.
Edit: From the battery being unplugged for a long time the car will idle funny for a little bit. Sometimes as much as 1/2 hour afterwards while driving. This is normal and just the car re-learning its idle.
Things you will need
Rubber Gloves
Brakleen (to clean the surround area if you would like)
Flashlight
Torque Wrench
Needlenose Pliers
Sockets w/matching ratchets
-27mm socket (if one has the VF engineering transmission mount center nut)
-22mm deep socket (reverse switch itself)
-21mm socket (stock transmission mount center nut)
-15mm deep socket (perimeter transmissoin mount nuts)
-13mm socket (battery tray nuts and bolt)
-10mm socket (battery terminal nuts)
-8mm socket (cruise control module retaining bolts)
-Any other socket that might be needed for removing things in the way such as the upper intake system and such.
-First using the 10mm socket remove the battery wires and push them aside
-Using the 13mm socket remove the bolt holding the battery retaining plate down
-Remove plate
-Remove battery from car
-Using the 13mm socket remove the three bolts pictured below and remove the battery tray
-This is what it should like when removed. Keep in mind I have the VF Engineering tranny mount.
-Here is what the stock mount will look like if you are stock
-Using a floor jack and a block of wood (to cushion the tranmission) take pressure off the transmission mount by jacking up ever so slightly under the transmission
-Using the 15mm deep socket remove the perimeter transmission mount nuts
-Using the 21mm (if stock mount) or 27mm (if VF) sockets remove the center mount bolt and remove the entire mount.
-Remove the three bolts pictured here. There are two 8mm bolts going into the cruise control module and one 13mm bolt going into the fender of the car
-Using the 13mm socket remove the pictured bolt that is mounted to the shock tower area.
-Using the needlenose pliers crunch that wire holder and push it down through its hole.
-Push that tranny mount tray out of the way so you can access the top of the transmission
-Here is a picture of the new reverse switch. (friggin 40 bucks from the stealer)
-See the old one way down there??
-Unclip its electrical connector
-Using the 22mm deep socket remove the reverse switch.
-Old vs New
-You will notice the switch does not have very much thread on it. So it doesn't take much to snug it down. Tighten it down. Snug but not tight at all. Do NOT reef on it.
-All in
-Now is also a good time to clean any of the grime outta there using the cleaner you bought. Don't get it in the electrical connector though.
-Putting it all back together is the reverse of taking it apart. With a few new things.
-Torque settings for the transmission mounts.
-Perimeter nuts on mount = 35 ft lbs
-Center nut on mount = 65-70 ft lbs
-Before the procedure
-And AFTER!!!
And all your reverse lights woes are solved.
Edit: From the battery being unplugged for a long time the car will idle funny for a little bit. Sometimes as much as 1/2 hour afterwards while driving. This is normal and just the car re-learning its idle.