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Old 07-24-2007, 06:22 AM   #9
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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Location: Fairmont, WV
What I Drive: Turbo 04 DSG Mach 1

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Day 7

Start time: ~6:00pm
End time: ~10:30pm

Today I reinstalled the intercooler piping to see if they were going to be in the way of the oil return line.
Luckily they are not.
My friend/coworker Dan will be welding an aluminum 5/8" OD pipe to my cast aluminum oil pan for a drain.
Dan built a 3-wheeled Vortex and it's now on the road!
I got to ride in it today and it's sweet! :grin:
Dan's Website
It will need to be 90* to properly clear the drive shaft.

Before I dropped the oil pan to take it to Dan tomorrow I installed the necessary plumbing at the oil sending unit for the oil feed and oil pressure gauge.
The sending unit is 1/4 NPT and hardware can be found at ACE Hardware.
I used Ultra Copper high temp gasket stuff to seal the threads.
Plumbing hardware includes: 2x 1/4" FPT T's, 2x 1/4" NPT double-sided threaded sections to mate the 2 T's, 2x 1/4" NPT -to- 1/8" FPT adapters, and a 90* 1/8" NPT -to- -3AN adapter.
One of the adapters if for the oil pressure gauge, and the other is for the oil feed line.
My oil feed line is Teflon with a stainless steel cover, made by Aeroquip.
I still have to cut it to length and install the swivel ends.
(FYI: FPT means Female NPT)

Removing the sending unit made the the installation of the T's etc very easy.
The T's will NOT have room to turn without at least loosening the 4 bolts holding in the sending unit.

Removing the oil pan was pretty easy.. installing it looks to be more challenging as I may need to loosen the transmission in order to properly align it and for the gasket RTV to adhere properly.
The oil pan fits snugly between an engine plate on the passenger's side, and the tranny.
Once all bolts are removed holding in the oil pan are removed (they are pretty obvious, no hidden bolts) the oil pan can be removed.
I gently pried at one side until it budged and seperated from the block..
Then I tapped that side back up to meet the block, and did the same on the other side.
Once the seal was broken all the way around the oil pan will pull down with minor prying.

Tomorrow I need to find the PCV valve!
It's apparently behind the intake manifold...
I'll be installing a PCV valve from an 88 Tbird.. assuming I can make it fit.


This one is for Dan so he can visualize what I need:

55lb Siemens Deka 3172 injectors and wiring harness adapters:

MAFia for the 2005+ Ford:

Oil feed/gauge hardware:

Oil sending unit:
Held in by 4x 10mm bolts.
Green thing is the oil temp sensor.
Threads are 1/4" NPT

Sending unit removed and plumbing installed:
TIP: when using an RTV style sealant, leave the first thread bare and then you can liberally apply the RTV to the rest of the mating threads.
This way the RTV won't squeeze out INTO the pipe.
Who cares if it squeezes out the outside!
EDIT: I'll use Teflon tape in the future, even though these have not leaked.

Sending unit and hardware reinstalled:

Oil pan removed:
Rotating assembly, shot from driver's side.

Oil pan removed:
Rotating assembly, shot from passenger's side.

Timing chain.
Passenger's side.
Here you can see the plate mentioned previously.

Piston, third from the driver's side.

I took pics of the oil pan removed, but apparently got oil on the lens of my cam so the pics were blurry! :wallbash:
Will post oil pan pics when I get it back from Dan.
'04 Mach 1. Built. Turbo. 667whp/631wtq
'06 Focus. Built. Turbo. WMI. (sold)
'03 Mach 1 : 12.61 @ 106.59 (sold)

Last edited by sutyak; 09-05-2007 at 10:05 AM.
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